Patek Philippe’s New Ultra-Precise Chronograph

The platinum 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph features seven exclusive patents.

By Paige Reddinger 07/04/2022

Watches and Wonders, the world’s largest tradeshow for timepieces, just ended. But Patek Philippe, which launched 12 new timepieces during the event, wasn’t done with its new releases.

On Wednesday, the Swiss watchmaker launched a sporty new high-performance grand complication, the 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph. The watch, Ref. 5470P-001, marks the first time the company has created a chronograph that can measure and display tenths of a second in a wristwatch and it comes with a whopping 31 patents, seven of which are exclusive to this reference. The manually-wound Calibre CH29-535 PS 1/10 chronograph movement features a column-wheel control, a horizontal dual-clutch with wheels and an instantaneous 30-minute counter, a 10ths-of-a-second module for measurements of the chronograph’s sweep hand and a small seconds indicator.

“We have been working altogether,” said Patek Philippe president Thierry Stern in a broadcast aired Wednesday morning. “The first part, of course, which was the most important was the movement. It’s not always easy to create a wristwatch with so many components and so much difficulty.” He added that the idea for the piece began as far back as 10 years ago when the company was thinking about how it could improve its CHR 29-535 PS split-seconds chronograph movement (found in all hand-wound chronographs at the company, with or without additional complications), first introduced in 2009, on which the new calibre is based. “We couldn’t do it at the time because the technology didn’t allow us to have a piece that was thin enough,” said Stern. The idea was that it not only had to be a technical achievement but, per Patek Philippe standards, it also had to look exceptional on the wrist.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph

Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph Patek Philippe

Improvements were plentiful. The split-seconds mechanism was replaced by the indication measure 10ths of a second. The frequency was increased from 4Hz to 5Hz, a requirement to display the ultra-accurate new measurement. “We have equipped [the base movement] with the Oscillomax, previously developed within our advanced research department for ref 5550P,” said Philip Barat, head of Patek Philippe’s watch development during the broadcast. “The Oscillomax consists of the Pulsomax escapement, the Gyromax balance and the Spiromax balance spring, all made of Silinvar and of Silinvar and gold for the Gyromax.”

 

Patek Philippe Caliber CH 29- 535 PS 1/10

Patek Philippe Calibre CH 29- 535 PS 1/10 Patek Philippe

The Oscillomax, developed in 2011, is a high-tech regulator mechanism boasting 17 patents, which enables a high rate of accuracy with a maximum deviation of -3/+2 seconds per day despite the elevated energy consumption of the movement. This marks the first time since the introduction of the Ref. 5550P in 2011, that the Oscillomax will be used for a timepiece in the current collection. The Oscillomax operates with a balance spring with a patented terminal curve called the Spiromx and an escapement with a lever and escape wheel, known as the Pulsomax, and an adjustable mass balance wheel, a.k.a. the Gyromax. They are all made from a derivative of silicon, called Silinvar, which is known for being lightweight, rugged and antimagnetic.

The list of complicated achievements is nearly endless. The movement consists of two superimposed chronograph mechanisms—a chronograph of this nature, by the way, can be as challenging to conceive as horology’s most lauded complication, the minute repeater—which required the development of 54 components for the 10th of a second mechanism alone. (The superimposing of the chronograph mechanisms is essentially a space saver to keep the piece thin per Stern’s standards.) The indication required a specific gear train in order to ensure the fluidity of its movement and the reliability of its timekeeping on the wrist. A pinion for the 10th of a second mechanism has micro-toothing that controls the correct start of the time measurement when the chronograph is activated, while a driving wheel aids the smooth movement of the hand.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph

Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph Patek Philippe

While these details will certainly appeal to collectors who appreciate technical achievements in a movement—a focus for Stern, who is keen on flexing the company’s know-how in the age of the Nautilus craze—it is surprisingly, simple to read despite its very challenging engineering (although you might need a magnifying glass to read the minute segments). When the two sweep hands are activated via the pusher at 2 o’clock, the red 10th of a second hand turns around the dial 10 times faster than the rhodium sandblasted steel seconds hand. When the latter is stopped, it can be read via the dotted bead markers around the circumference (as pictured, it is indicating 20 seconds). The red hand is measured by the white markers segmented by 12 red sectors (the red sectors indicate a full second, while the white markers indicated 10ths of a second). As pictured, the red hand is indicating that a full 10 tenths of a second has been reached at the red line. If the red hand was positioned one increment further it would read an additional 1/10th of a second. The hour and minutes are, of course, traditionally displayed by two 18-karat white gold hands (indicating 10:09 as pictured), while the chronograph counters are shown in a snailed small seconds at 9 o’clock and snailed 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock. The crown has two positions: the first for winding the movement and the second for setting the time.

To drive home the message that this is no ordinary sports watch, Patek Philippe chose to encase the Ref. 5470P in platinum and, as such, like all other Patek Philippe timepieces in the elite metal, it comes with a diamond on the rim of the case at 6 o’clock. The case, which was inspired by the design of the Ref. 5370, comes with recessed and satin-finished flanks with lugs adorned with decorative cabochon. The dial comes in blue lacquer topped off with a slightly domed sapphire crystal. It is fitted with a navy-blue calfskin strap with an embossed fabric pattern, red stitching and a platinum foldover clasp.

The price is, naturally, upon request.

The 7 Patents Exclusive to the Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P:

Concentric display

This assures simple, swift, and safe legibility of seconds and fractions of a second.

Notch in the barrel arbor

The notch reduces the tension exerted by the spring hook while the mainspring is being wound and allows a smaller diameter of the barrel arbor, increasing the energy stored in the mainspring by further spring coils.

1/10 driving wheel with anti-backlash feature

Designed on two levels (an upper wheel with flexible spokes and a lower one with rigid spokes), it allows the creation of an anti-backlash wheel that is compact and consumes little energy.

Chronograph with shock-absorber hook

In the event of a shock, this system securely holds the clutch rocker of the operating chronograph mechanism to prevent disruptions of the ongoing short-time measurement.

Pendulum shock absorber

This system utilizes the acceleration forces of shocks on the watch to keep the components of a mechanism in the desired position and thus to assure correct functionality.

Surface primer for the silicon hand

This improves the adhesion of lacquer on a silicon-oxide surface (Silinvar).

ADVERTISE WITH US

Subscribe to the Newsletter

Stay Connected

You may also like.

Minerality in Wine, Explained: How It Affects Taste, Aroma and Texture

And an exploration of the regions that produce great mineral-driven varietals.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 07/05/2024

If you have taken part in a wine tasting, read an article about wine, or even glanced at the back label of a bottle of wine, you have likely encountered the word minerality. But defining what that means exactly is where the problems can start—even wine experts disagree on what it is and how it expresses itself in the glass.

Minerality refers to a flavour profile and often a palpable sensation in the mouth. The flavours generally involve rocks or fossils, such as stone, river rock, flint, gravel, slate, asphalt and oyster shell. There is also a sense of salinity, often derived from volcanic soils, that is a component of mineral-driven wines. This is different from other earthy flavours such as forest floor or peat. When we host tastings, very few people will own up to having licked rocks as a child, but almost everyone has gotten a stray bit of oyster or clam shell in their mouth and can recall the taste and texture. Most of us can remember the scent of a chalkboard or pencil lead from our childhood, and even those who have never fired a gun are familiar with flint or gunpowder from firecrackers.

When minerality is discussed, it is often a quality ascribed to white wine such as Riesling, Assyrtiko, Sauvignon Blanc or Burgundian Chardonnay. We may not hear about minerality in red wine so much because the oak used for maturation may mask the flavours and aromas associated with minerality. However, two reds sometimes described as having mineral qualities are those from the volcanic soils of Mount Etna in Sicily and the shale and quartz vineyards of Priorat in Spain. A prime example of the mineral-driven style is Chablis in the northernmost reaches of Burgundy, whose wines are made with 100 percent Chardonnay. The wines have a distinctly different character than the oaky, buttery style prevalent in Napa Valley and further south in Burgundy.

Walking through the vineyards of Chablis you can see abundant fossilised oyster shells that date back 150 million years to the Upper Jurassic period, when this area was at the bottom of the sea. Dig a bit; you will find calcified ammonites and spiral-shaped cephalopods from the same era. While vineyard soil is a discussion for another day, the grey limestone here is called Kimmeridgian, named for the village of Kimmeridge in Dorset, England, where it was first identified. As Thierry Bellicaud, president of Domaine Laroche in Chablis told Robb Report, “The Kimmeridgian limestone soil, which is unique to this area, delivers all needed nutrients for the balance of the vines. The terroir nurtures the vines which then express its personality in the grapes.”

Fossils from ancient seabeds contribute to the flavour of the wine.
DOMAINE LAROCHE, CHABLIS, FRANCE

Asked how soil composition influences one of Domaine Laroche’s wines, Bellicaud referenced its Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots, “Les Blanchots is a unique terroir made of a layer of white clay on Kimmeridgian limestone with ammonites. This is the ideal combination to keep the right amount of water for the roots. The southeast exposure allows slow ripening and favours aroma development. It is one of the areas in the appellation where you can easily find oyster fossils (called Exogyra virgula). The Grand Cru Les Blanchots is delicate, refined and silky in texture.”

Assyrtiko from Santorini is almost always described as possessing a mineral quality as well as a touch of salinity, which can be attributed to the black volcanic soil in which it grows as well as to the Aegean Seaspray that wafts over the island’s vineyards. Mosel Valley Riesling’s leanness and flinty character come from the red and blue limestone in which it is cultivated.

Italy’s Soave region is also known for the minerality of its wine. Alessio Inama, third-generation family leader and director of sales, marketing and communication at Inama Azienda Agricola, told Robb Report, “Soave Classico is a volcanic region with soil made up of basaltic rocks, volcanic tuffs and ashes that date back 30 million years. The soils offer minerals in their natural form, which impact the composition of the plants themselves. In the case of grape vines, the soils have a major influence on the resulting flavours of the wines, which are mineral and floral.”

Known for their scrupulous mapping of micro-plots within their vineyards, the Inamas produce several different Soave wines made with the Garganega grape. Inama I Palchi Foscarino Grande Cuvée Soave DOC is crafted from the family’s best plots on Monte Foscarino. Inama explained, “The soil of Foscarino is a mix of pure magma, ashes and basaltic rocks that deteriorated over millions of years into a dark clay that is extremely rich in minerals. The grapes from those 40-year-old vines have strong personality, great intensity and texture, delivering a complex bouquet of white flowers, citrus notes and flinty sensations.”

The Priorat wine region in Spain is known for its minerality.
SCALA DEI, PRIORAT, SPAIN

While the sensation of minerality can be less obvious in red wines, Spanish Garnacha and Sicilian Nerello Mascalese are two grapes that often exhibit it, thanks to both the locales from which they hail as well as the often-judicious use of oak. The slopes of eastern Sicily’s Mount Etna are covered with volcanic soils composed of pumice, black ash and basalt. Priorat, a region close to Barcelona in northeast Spain, is blessed with black quartz, slate and mica soils called llicorella. Here you will find vineyards covered with small fragments of black and grey striated rock sitting atop blue and red soils embedded with the same.

Ricard Rofes, winemaker at Scala Dei in Priorat, refers to its Mas Deu vineyard as one of the winery’s “jewels.” The origin of Scala Dei Tribut and Masdeu, it sits 800 meters (2,625 feet) above sea level. Rofes told Robb Report, “In this elevated area the clay and limestone soils are ideal for growing Grenache, giving the wine that touch of acidity and freshness that makes it unique. The red-clay soils and the altitude of the vineyards located in the lap of the Sierra de Montsant give it freshness and the llicorella soils impart a genuine imprint. Our wine is the pure expression of the fruit and the terroir with a distinct personality.”

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Best of Europe: Six Senses, Switzerland 

Mend in the mountains at Crans-Montana.

By The Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Wellness pioneer Six Senses made a name for itself with tranquil, mostly tropical destinations. Now, its first alpine hotel recreates that signature mix of sustainable luxury and innovative spa therapeutics in a world-class ski setting. 

The ski-in, ski-out location above the gondola of one of Switzerland’s largest winter sports resorts allows guests to schuss from the top of the Plaine Morte glacier to the hotel’s piste-side lounge, where they can swap ski gear for slippers, then head straight to the spa’s bio-hack recovery area to recharge with compression boots, binaural beats and an herb-spiked mocktail. In summer, the region is a golf and hiking hub. 

The vibe offers a contemporary take on chalet style. The 78 rooms and suites are decorated in local larch and oak, and all have terraces or balconies with alpine views over the likes of the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. With four different saunas, a sensory flotation pod, two pools
and a whimsical relaxation area complete with 15,000 hanging “icicles” and views of a birch forest, the spa at Six Senses Crans-Montana makes après ski an afterthought.

You can even sidestep the cheese-heavy cuisine of this region in favour of hot pots and sushi at the property’s Japanese restaurant, Byakko. Doubles from around $1,205; Sixsenses.com

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Best of Europe: Grand Hotel Des Étrangers

Fall for a Baroque beauty in Syracuse, Italy.

By Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Sicily has seen a White Lotus–fuelled surge in bookings for this summer—a pop-culture fillip to fill up its grandes dames hotels. Skip the gawping crowds at the headline-grabbers, though, and opt instead for an insider-ish alternative: the Grand Hotel des Étrangers, which reopened last summer after a gut renovation.

It sits on the seafront on the tiny island of Ortigia in Syracuse, all cobbled streets and grand buildings, like a Baroque time capsule on Sicily’s southeastern coast. 

Survey the entire streetscape here from the all-day rooftop bar-restaurant, Clou, where the fusion menu is a shorthand of Sicily’s pan-Mediterranean history; try the spaghetti with bottarga and wild fennel or the sea bass crusted in anchovies. Idle on the terrace alfresco with a snifter of avola, the rum made nearby. 

Image: Benedetto Tarantino

As for the rooms, they’ve been renovated with Art Deco–inflected interiors—think plenty of parquet and marble—but the main asset is their aspect: the best of them have private balconies and a palm tree-fringed view out over the Ionian Sea. Doubles from around $665; desetranger.com

 

 

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected