The Ultimate Pieces From Paris High-Jewellery Week

Owing to the pandemic, the presentations were understated. The jewels, however, were anything but.

By Victoria Gomelsky, Paige Reddinger 07/02/2022

The ongoing pandemic may have put a tiny chill on the recent high jewellery presentations in Paris, but the luxury jewellers that did hold private appointments—including Boucheron, Cindy Chao, Chopard, De Beers and Louis Vuitton—brought more than enough fire (or should we say ice?) to set the City of Light ablaze, metaphorically speaking. We’ve cherrypicked the highlights below.

Boucheron

Boucheron New Maharani Set

Boucheron New Maharani Set Boucheron

How do you revive the magnificent jewels of the Maharajas for the modern era? Go monochromatic. Boucheron creative director, Claire Choisne, has a knack for turning the simplicity of airy-looking jewels and stones into splendour. For the recent collection high-jewellery collection in January, a season when the house typically revisits its archives, Choisne was inspired by a legendary event in the maison’s history when, in 1928, the Maharaja of Patiala arrived on Boucheron’s doorstep to place the largest special order in history in Paris’ jewellery mecca, the Place Vendôme. Nothing about the occasion was discrete. He arrived with 40 servants in tow, booked 35 rooms at the Ritz and was escorted to the company’s boutique by Sikh guards carrying iron safes filled to the brim with jewels. Already a physical titan at a towering 6 foot 7, he intended to accentuate his royal presence to the ultimate heights in 149 unique designs. Unfortunately, while the sketches survived, the jewelled creations did not. Their whereabouts are unknown and the pieces have never been seen past his generation, save for one photo of his son wearing a necklace. So, it was a heavy task for Choisne to reinterpret the designs for modern royalty.

“This commission by the Maharajah of Patiala seemed like a fairytale, it is the stuff of dreams, says Choisne in a press statement. “In our archives, we have kept the 149 original designs from which I got my inspiration for this collection. I wanted to transpose these designs into the 21st century and to reinvent them for today’s Maharanis and Maharajahs. For these women and these men who want to express their personality and their own style.”

Boucheron New Maharajah Necklace

Boucheron New Maharajah Necklace Boucheron

To do so, she opted for the lightness of white and transparent stones in white diamonds and rock crystal which transforms the opulence of the traditional Far East jewels into surprisingly refined and sleek designs without sacrificing the wow factor. The only piece in the collection to feature any coloured gems is an extravagant parure set with 9 Colombian emeralds totalling 40 carats which can transform into a collar necklace lined with baguette-cut emeralds or be worn as a brooch. The original emerald gems that hung from the bottom have been replaced with diamonds encapsulated in rock crystal to magnify their sparkle.

 

 

Boucheron Maharani Nacre

Boucheron Maharani Nacre Boucheron

But if you are really looking to flex your power status and show up any fellow high-jewellery collectors, the pinnacle is the Maharani set executed entirely in white gold, diamonds, cultured pearls and rock crystal. It is comprised of three necklaces: a stunning choker collar with a 4.05-carat cushion-cut diamond highlighting the centre, a slightly longer necklace featuring five strands of diamonds, each set with cushion-cut diamonds at the centre weighing a total of 7.35-carats, that can be converted to a tassel necklace or worn as a choker and an extra-long necklace that drops to the navel with a cascade of diamonds and A 5 178 Japanese pearls culminating in a tassel with a Lotus-flower motif. The latter can be worn a multitude of ways transforming from its full-length into a shorter version or as a choker, while two pearl bracelets can be extracted from the full piece and a tassel can be separated and worn as a brooch.

While the original jewels may never resurface, Choisne’s homage pieces, which serve a minimalist approach to the Maharaja’s maximalist style, are certainly worthy of being seen, worn and possibly even enshrined.

Cindy Chao The Art Jewel

Cindy Chao Feather Brooch

Cindy Chao Feather Brooch Cindy chao

The Taiwanese high jeweller Cindy Chao, who was recently appointed a Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres (a knight of the Order of Arts and Letters) in Paris, used the occasion of couture week to present a seven-piece collection that reflects an evolving style, one she describes as having “turned towards ‘essentialism.’”

“Instead of making complicated designs, I now spend much more time contemplating how to reduce the unnecessary,” she says, citing Michelangelo’s work with marble as an inspiration.

That ethos is apparent in a spectacular feather brooch set with 39 cushion-cut diamonds and a smattering of colourful side stones totalling 83 carats, including more than 1,300 stones fully paved along the shaft of the titanium quill. Another highlight is a pair of earrings set in titanium that’s been sculpted into two delicate pieces of ocean coral. Centred on a couple of 2.2-carat pear-shaped stones—a fancy brown-orange diamond and a blue sapphire — set in contrasting light-activated resin, the earrings combine unconventional and precious materials, in service of Chao’s mission “to break the boundaries between high jewellery and art.”

 

 

Cindy Chao Black Label Masterpiece V Foliage Earrings

Cindy Chao Black Label Masterpiece V Foliage Earrings Cindy Chao

The resin also appears in the resplendent Foliage earrings that belong to Chao’s steadily-evolving Black Label Masterpiece collection, lending an “organic sensation” to the metal and gemstones. “I was inspired by the crinkles one observes in the autumn leaves,” she says, “and created this pair of earrings to showcase the undulations, curves and romance that can only be found in nature.”

Chopard

Chopard Insofu Emerald

Chopard Insofu Emerald Chopard

The star of Chopard’s high jewellery presentation wasn’t a jewel, but an emerald, and not just any emerald, but the Chopard Insofu Emerald, a 6,225-carat rough gem mined in Zambia and recently acquired by co-president and artistic director Caroline Scheufele. The fully traceable stone is expected to yield a number of high-quality cut gems, to be used in future Chopard collections (“the promise of marvels to come,” as the brand stated in an Instagram post).

Chopard rose of Caroline and Toi et Moi Blue- and White-Diamond Ring

Chopard Rose of Caroline and Toi et Moi Blue- and White-Diamond Ring Chopard

The other notable pieces in the Geneva jeweller’s small but mighty showing included a Fairmined-certified ethical gold ring set with a 10.88-ct. radiant-cut fancy intense pink diamond and a Toi & Moi two-stone ring that features an exceptional 4.10-ct. fancy intense blue diamond and a top-quality white diamond. Megan Fox, eat your heart out!

De Beers

De Beers Atomique Diamond Collar Necklace

De Beers Atomique Diamond Collar Necklace De Beers

Working with the De Beers design studio, Céline Assimon, the CEO of De Beers Jewellers, looked to the transformative power of light to create the maison’s The Alchemist of Light high jewellery collection, an assortment of seven sets totaling 45 one-of-a-kind pieces (some were shown this week while the rest will be unveiled during Paris Couture in July).

The two sets that De Beers just presented, Atomique and Light Rays, share the theme of light—“the way it interacts with the world and can change the way we perceive it and even more so how it brings to life the beauty of diamonds,” says Assimon—yet boast very different vibes.

In Atomique, the team used negative space to imagine a diamond “at a molecular level,” says Assimon. “This is depicted by the geometric patterns and abstract motifs of the jewellery, which features exclusive white round brilliant diamonds set on white gold.”

 

 

De Beers Atomique Diamond Solitaire Ring

De Beers Atomique Diamond Solitaire Ring De Beers

Her favourite piece from the set is a double ring featuring white space between the central diamond and “a quartet of diamonds with articulated settings that appear to float like satellites,” Assimon says.

Light Rays, on the other hand, incorporates titanium, a De Beers’ first, and represents a daring new direction for the house. The talking piece is a transformable collar necklace with a striking fringe effect (“reminiscent of fanning light rays,” says Assimon) designed to evoke “the moment when sunlight radiates across the sky from behind mountains and clouds.”

De Beers Light Rays Collar Necklace

De Beers Light Rays Collar Necklace De Beers

“It pays tribute to the high jewellery craft with its complex construction, yet it is fluid and sensual because of the use of titanium, which makes the necklace feel like silk,” says Assimon. “The beauty of this necklace is that it is also transformable: The titanium fringe can be detached to provide the wearer with a very different statement look to suit different occasions and moods.”

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Le Multipin Necklace

Louis Vuitton Le Multipin Necklace Louis Vuitton

A follow-up to the first chapter of Louis Vuitton’s Bravery high jewellery collection, introduced in July to honour the bicentenary of the founder’s birth, this second instalment focuses on the man’s most iconic creation, the trunk. Locks, studs and clasps connect the 20 pieces that make up the mostly polychromatic line, which is structured around four themes: Le Multipin, Le Magnétisme, La Mini Malle and Cocktail Rings.

Francesca Amfitheatrof, the house’s artistic director for watches and jewellery, has outdone herself with the Le Multipin necklace. Studded with more than 100 coloured stones—pink and green tourmalines, citrines, aquamarines, tanzanites—set in three rows, the necklace comes together on a rare 42.42-carat lagoon blue tourmaline, designed to resemble the Louis Vuitton trunk closure.

Louis Vuitton Mini Malle Necklace

Louis Vuitton Mini Malle Necklace Louis Vuitton

Meanwhile, diamond aficionados are bound to fall in love with the house’s monochromatic La Mini Malle set—including a choker, a bracelet, a jewellery watch and a long necklace that transforms into a choker and two bracelets—which interprets the geometric shape of its “Petite Malle” shoulder bag, introduced in 2014, as a miniaturised extravaganza of white gold and diamonds. All in all, Bravery Chapter II serves as a dazzling ode to the most famous piece of luggage ever invented.

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Minerality in Wine, Explained: How It Affects Taste, Aroma and Texture

And an exploration of the regions that produce great mineral-driven varietals.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 07/05/2024

If you have taken part in a wine tasting, read an article about wine, or even glanced at the back label of a bottle of wine, you have likely encountered the word minerality. But defining what that means exactly is where the problems can start—even wine experts disagree on what it is and how it expresses itself in the glass.

Minerality refers to a flavour profile and often a palpable sensation in the mouth. The flavours generally involve rocks or fossils, such as stone, river rock, flint, gravel, slate, asphalt and oyster shell. There is also a sense of salinity, often derived from volcanic soils, that is a component of mineral-driven wines. This is different from other earthy flavours such as forest floor or peat. When we host tastings, very few people will own up to having licked rocks as a child, but almost everyone has gotten a stray bit of oyster or clam shell in their mouth and can recall the taste and texture. Most of us can remember the scent of a chalkboard or pencil lead from our childhood, and even those who have never fired a gun are familiar with flint or gunpowder from firecrackers.

When minerality is discussed, it is often a quality ascribed to white wine such as Riesling, Assyrtiko, Sauvignon Blanc or Burgundian Chardonnay. We may not hear about minerality in red wine so much because the oak used for maturation may mask the flavours and aromas associated with minerality. However, two reds sometimes described as having mineral qualities are those from the volcanic soils of Mount Etna in Sicily and the shale and quartz vineyards of Priorat in Spain. A prime example of the mineral-driven style is Chablis in the northernmost reaches of Burgundy, whose wines are made with 100 percent Chardonnay. The wines have a distinctly different character than the oaky, buttery style prevalent in Napa Valley and further south in Burgundy.

Walking through the vineyards of Chablis you can see abundant fossilised oyster shells that date back 150 million years to the Upper Jurassic period, when this area was at the bottom of the sea. Dig a bit; you will find calcified ammonites and spiral-shaped cephalopods from the same era. While vineyard soil is a discussion for another day, the grey limestone here is called Kimmeridgian, named for the village of Kimmeridge in Dorset, England, where it was first identified. As Thierry Bellicaud, president of Domaine Laroche in Chablis told Robb Report, “The Kimmeridgian limestone soil, which is unique to this area, delivers all needed nutrients for the balance of the vines. The terroir nurtures the vines which then express its personality in the grapes.”

Fossils from ancient seabeds contribute to the flavour of the wine.
DOMAINE LAROCHE, CHABLIS, FRANCE

Asked how soil composition influences one of Domaine Laroche’s wines, Bellicaud referenced its Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots, “Les Blanchots is a unique terroir made of a layer of white clay on Kimmeridgian limestone with ammonites. This is the ideal combination to keep the right amount of water for the roots. The southeast exposure allows slow ripening and favours aroma development. It is one of the areas in the appellation where you can easily find oyster fossils (called Exogyra virgula). The Grand Cru Les Blanchots is delicate, refined and silky in texture.”

Assyrtiko from Santorini is almost always described as possessing a mineral quality as well as a touch of salinity, which can be attributed to the black volcanic soil in which it grows as well as to the Aegean Seaspray that wafts over the island’s vineyards. Mosel Valley Riesling’s leanness and flinty character come from the red and blue limestone in which it is cultivated.

Italy’s Soave region is also known for the minerality of its wine. Alessio Inama, third-generation family leader and director of sales, marketing and communication at Inama Azienda Agricola, told Robb Report, “Soave Classico is a volcanic region with soil made up of basaltic rocks, volcanic tuffs and ashes that date back 30 million years. The soils offer minerals in their natural form, which impact the composition of the plants themselves. In the case of grape vines, the soils have a major influence on the resulting flavours of the wines, which are mineral and floral.”

Known for their scrupulous mapping of micro-plots within their vineyards, the Inamas produce several different Soave wines made with the Garganega grape. Inama I Palchi Foscarino Grande Cuvée Soave DOC is crafted from the family’s best plots on Monte Foscarino. Inama explained, “The soil of Foscarino is a mix of pure magma, ashes and basaltic rocks that deteriorated over millions of years into a dark clay that is extremely rich in minerals. The grapes from those 40-year-old vines have strong personality, great intensity and texture, delivering a complex bouquet of white flowers, citrus notes and flinty sensations.”

The Priorat wine region in Spain is known for its minerality.
SCALA DEI, PRIORAT, SPAIN

While the sensation of minerality can be less obvious in red wines, Spanish Garnacha and Sicilian Nerello Mascalese are two grapes that often exhibit it, thanks to both the locales from which they hail as well as the often-judicious use of oak. The slopes of eastern Sicily’s Mount Etna are covered with volcanic soils composed of pumice, black ash and basalt. Priorat, a region close to Barcelona in northeast Spain, is blessed with black quartz, slate and mica soils called llicorella. Here you will find vineyards covered with small fragments of black and grey striated rock sitting atop blue and red soils embedded with the same.

Ricard Rofes, winemaker at Scala Dei in Priorat, refers to its Mas Deu vineyard as one of the winery’s “jewels.” The origin of Scala Dei Tribut and Masdeu, it sits 800 meters (2,625 feet) above sea level. Rofes told Robb Report, “In this elevated area the clay and limestone soils are ideal for growing Grenache, giving the wine that touch of acidity and freshness that makes it unique. The red-clay soils and the altitude of the vineyards located in the lap of the Sierra de Montsant give it freshness and the llicorella soils impart a genuine imprint. Our wine is the pure expression of the fruit and the terroir with a distinct personality.”

 

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Best fo Europe: Six Senses, Switzerland 

Mend in the mountains at Crans-Montana.

By The Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Wellness pioneer Six Senses made a name for itself with tranquil, mostly tropical destinations. Now, its first alpine hotel recreates that signature mix of sustainable luxury and innovative spa therapeutics in a world-class ski setting. 

The ski-in, ski-out location above the gondola of one of Switzerland’s largest winter sports resorts allows guests to schuss from the top of the Plaine Morte glacier to the hotel’s piste-side lounge, where they can swap ski gear for slippers, then head straight to the spa’s bio-hack recovery area to recharge with compression boots, binaural beats and an herb-spiked mocktail. In summer, the region is a golf and hiking hub. 

The vibe offers a contemporary take on chalet style. The 78 rooms and suites are decorated in local larch and oak, and all have terraces or balconies with alpine views over the likes of the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. With four different saunas, a sensory flotation pod, two pools
and a whimsical relaxation area complete with 15,000 hanging “icicles” and views of a birch forest, the spa at Six Senses Crans-Montana makes après ski an afterthought.

You can even sidestep the cheese-heavy cuisine of this region in favour of hot pots and sushi at the property’s Japanese restaurant, Byakko. Doubles from around $1,205; Sixsenses.com

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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Best of Europe: Grand Hotel Des Étrangers

Fall for a Baroque beauty in Syracuse, Italy.

By Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Sicily has seen a White Lotus–fuelled surge in bookings for this summer—a pop-culture fillip to fill up its grandes dames hotels. Skip the gawping crowds at the headline-grabbers, though, and opt instead for an insider-ish alternative: the Grand Hotel des Étrangers, which reopened last summer after a gut renovation.

It sits on the seafront on the tiny island of Ortigia in Syracuse, all cobbled streets and grand buildings, like a Baroque time capsule on Sicily’s southeastern coast. 

Survey the entire streetscape here from the all-day rooftop bar-restaurant, Clou, where the fusion menu is a shorthand of Sicily’s pan-Mediterranean history; try the spaghetti with bottarga and wild fennel or the sea bass crusted in anchovies. Idle on the terrace alfresco with a snifter of avola, the rum made nearby. 

Image: Benedetto Tarantino

As for the rooms, they’ve been renovated with Art Deco–inflected interiors—think plenty of parquet and marble—but the main asset is their aspect: the best of them have private balconies and a palm tree-fringed view out over the Ionian Sea. Doubles from around $665; desetranger.com

 

 

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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