Chopard Unveils Alluring 25th Anniversary Editions

The limited series of high complications marks the 1996 opening of Chopard’s watch manufacture.

By Carol Beslser 16/11/2021

Chopard will celebrate the 25th anniversary of the opening of its Fleurier and Geneva watch manufactures next year and to mark the big occasion it is already releasing two outstanding versions of its most notable complications: a L.U.C Flying T Twin tourbillon with blue guilloché dial and a L.U.C Full Strike minute repeater in platinum.

At a mere 7.2 mm-thick, the L.U.C Flying T Twin flying tourbillon is a prime example of ultra-slim watchmaking, a hot horological category in recent years. Yet slimness for its own sake was not necessarily the intention. “The Flying T Twin is one of the thinnest tourbillons on the market, but that wasn’t the goal,” says Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. “The aim was to produce the most elegant tourbillon on the market.”

Chopard L.U.C. Flying T Twin

Chopard L.U.C. Flying T Twin Chopard

Design-wise, the watch does not flaunt its exceptional escapement—the opening through which the tourbillon carriage can be seen is not large—but rather, showcases the guilloché engraving. The gold dial is hand-engraved in a honeycomb pattern and then finished with a dramatic blue galvanic treatment. The pattern, introduced into the L.U.C collection in 2017, is a reference to Chopard’s heritage. From its beginning in 1860 until the 1920s, Chopard’s founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard, adorned some of its watches with bee symbols. Both the movements and the inside covers of pocket watches were engraved with a hive surrounded by bees. The motif was meant to represent industriousness and authenticity, but it was also just a nice way of decorating the watches. When Chopard revived its manufacturing division in 1996, Scheufele decided to reprise the pattern by using it on certain elite models in the L.U.C collection.

Chopard L.U.C. Flying T Twin Caseback

Chopard L.U.C. Flying T Twin Caseback Chopard

The Flying T Twin has the distinction of being the only automatic tourbillon with both C.O.S.C certification and the Poinçon de Genève hallmark. Chopard’s ultra-slim calibre L.U.C 96.24-L was first introduced in 2019, and is equipped with L.U.C Twin technology based on two stacked barrels for a 65-hour power reserve—the “Twin” in the name means two barrels, not two tourbillons. It also has a stop-seconds function for to-the-second time setting. The movement has been used exclusively in limited editions in the L.U.C collection.

The 40 mm case is made of ethically sourced 18-carat white gold and a snailed motif adorns the chapter ring punctuated by understated rhodium-plated hour-markers. The small seconds is driven by the one-minute tourbillon carriage. It is limited to 50 pieces and is price upon request.

 

 

Chopard L.U.C. Full Strike

Chopard L.U.C. Full Strike Chopard

Even more rare is the second 25th Anniversary edition, the L.U.C Full Strike, limited to just 20 pieces and also price upon request. It offers a more dramatic display of its technical side: the dial is partially openworked to reveal the L.U.C 08.01-L minute repeater movement. Some will remember that the Full Strike was the winner of the top prize, the Aguille d’Or, in the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. It was launched in 2016 in pink gold, and in white gold in 2018. This is the first platinum edition, and it’s limited to 20 pieces.

What differentiates it from other repeaters is the one-piece crystal and gong component, machined from a single block of sapphire. It indicates the time through a combination of two notes, C# and F, with a crystal-clear, constant sound. “A platinum minute repeater would never otherwise resonate like this,” says Scheufele. “The metal would just eat the sound. But the crystal system enhances the sound.” Scheufele says he got the idea from the sound of a fork hitting against a crystal glass—an idea that took Chopard technicians 15,000 hours to realise in a watch. Each watch takes 160 hours to assemble. “It was the biggest project ever, for our R&D department,” says Scheufele.

Chopard L.U.C. Full Strike Caseback and Movement

Chopard L.U.C. Full Strike Caseback and Movement Chopard

The Full Strike Platinum is also Poinçon de Genève and C.O.S.C. certified, and according to Chopard, it is the world’s only C.O.S.C.-certified minute repeater.

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

At last, the original Formula 1 returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the colourful and eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. You could say that the writing was on the wall when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a plethora of vintage models across his Instagram account in the aftermath of Watches & Wonders 2023. In fact, speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair in Geneva, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they do it?

My answer to the baited question, whilst informed (in my opinion), definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels, but here were are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry truly enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, we’ve seen Scuba Fifty Fathoms, we’ve seen John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might just be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There’s 10 new watches in total, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet, and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options a direct nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive specifically to Kith and its global stores; New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific, and are made in an abundance of colours, like the originals. Two are then exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith – this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents and a creamy-taupe, vintage-inspired dial. This particular model arrives on a steel bracelet with an eggshell dial, and will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, across the entirety of the collection, you will find Fieg’s design cues punctuated throughout: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith”, forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan “Just Us”.

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that compliments the fun and colour-theme of the Formula 1, but all the same drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch, but rather reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely, limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we really think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall on their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, it being their very first timepiece or one that was seminal in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and buddying watch fans should be pleased with the result. The collection has been executed extraordinarily well, pondered on for years, and to TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating the proportions, materials, and aesthetic of this iconic collection for the modern day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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