22 Best Watch Releases Of 2021 (So Far)

Here, our highly-curated pick of the year’s best timepieces to date.

By Richard Brown 05/08/2021

2021 has been a heady horological year that’s seen the debut of a wealth of alluring new releases. From the dominance of green-dialled design, to the birth of ever-more complicated references and the constant drive for innovation within watchmaking, a plethora of timepieces have caught the eye of the Robb Report team.  Here, our highly-curated pick of the best to land so far.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Quadriptyque

Get this: this watch will not only tell you the time, but the day, date, month, if it’s day or night, and whether or not it’s a leap year. It’s also equipped with a celestial and astronomical function, meaning you can track exactly how far we are into the synodic, draconic and anomalistic cycles. Oh, and on the fourth of the watch’s four faces, a moonphase indicator will display the stage of the Moon in the Southern Hemisphere. It does all of this via a series of cogs and gears inside a case that’s just 51mm x 31mm x 15.15mm. Astonishing.

jaeger-lecoultre.com

IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Edition Mojave Desert

For its latest ‘Mojave Desert’ models, IWC sticks to the original, larger-than-life 46mm format. Undoubtedly one of the most eye-catching launches of the year so far, the watch is now available as a perpetual calendar and a simple three-hander. We say simple … even the time-only model houses a twin spring-barrel movement that provides a seven-day power reserve.

iwc.com

Piaget Polo Skeleton

Every watch brand has its shtick. Piaget has two specialisms; skeletonisation and ultra-thin movements, fortes writ large in the new Polo Skeleton. The model is 30 per cent thinner than existing Polo watches, with a 42mm case that’s been slimmed down to just 6.5mm thick. An in-house, wafer-thin movement measures just 2.4mm deep. Despite its leanness, the watch has a 44-hour power reserve and is water-resistant to 30 metres. If you’re not digging the blue, choose slate grey instead.

piaget.com

MB&F Horological Machine N°9 Sapphire Vision

In 2019, MB&F presented the Horological Machine N°9, the case of which was designed to mimic the flowing, aerodynamic lines of cars from the 1940s and ‘50s: MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser described the engine inside the watch as “the most beautiful movement we’ve created to date”. So it stands to reason that Büsser would want to show off that engine. Why did it take two years to create a transparent shell? Because sapphire crystal is one of the most difficult materials with which to work. Most sapphire cases are composed of two flat slabs screwed together. The HM9 is all bubbles and curves. It took two years for MB&F to crack the case—not literally, obviously.

mbandf.com

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Flying Tourbillon

Fresh from its cameo in one of the most-watched documentaries of all time—see the wrists of Michael Jordan and Scottie Pippen in last year’s The Last Dance—Roger Dubuis presents the latest interpretation of its Excalibur Double Flying Tourbillon. A quick-release system allows owners to switch between straps, although the Tourbillon club remains exclusive. Only 24 examples are being made—eight in white gold, eight in pink gold and eight in pink gold with diamond-set bezels and lugs.

rogerdubuis.com

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm

AP sandwiches a black ceramic case between a bezel and case-back made of either pink or white gold. The Code 11.59 collection was launched to diversify the brand away from its seminal octagonal sports watch, the Royal Oak. While it doesn’t look like Gérald Genta’s design classic will be knocked off its pedestal any time soon, AP continues to demonstrate its commitment to the most provocative watch of the past few years.

audemarspiguet.com

Chanel Boy.Friend Skeleton X-Ray

When it first dropped in 2015, its dainty proportions and diamonds positioned it as women’s watch, even if the brand wouldn’t say so explicitly. Yet there was enough masculinity in the Tank-like design to widen the watch’s appeal. The brand has since described the timepiece as “gender fluid”. The Skeleton X-Ray presents Chanel’s stunning, vertically laid-out, in-house Calibre 3 in all its floating glory, thanks to an all-sapphire case. Don’t let the name put you off.

chanel.com

Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25

If you appreciate sophisticated watchmaking, the elegant Quattro Spirit 25—Chopard’s first jumping-hour timepiece—features an 18-carat rose-gold case and a beautiful Grand Feu white enamel dial, with an hour aperture at six o’clock. Almost the entire watch, from the enamelling process to the production of its four-barrel movement, was completed within Chopard’s manufacturing facility in Fleurier, Switzerland.

chopard.com

Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic (Grey)

There’s a lot to like about this new Hublot—the integrated bracelet, for starters. Then there’s the single-material architecture, and the fact that it’s twice as scratch-resistant as steel. Mostly, though, it’s about this particular colour; a polished-then-satin-finished, titanium-esque, gunmetal grey. The 42mm watch is also available in white and midnight-blue, but it’s this stealthy, steely number that’s the real head-turner.

hublot.com

Baume Et Mercier Riviera

A sense of refinement drapes the return of B&M’s Riviera, a robust piece famed for its 12-sided bezel, and which debuted in 1973. That ’70s spark remains and the reissue feels right in regards to its timing, given the ascendancy of integrated steel bracelets. The contemporary outing means three sizes—36mm, 42mm or 43mm case—with the top-spec Baumatic edition boasting the in-house Baumatic movement launched in 2018.

baume-et-mercier.com

OMEGA Seamaster 300m Black Black

While Omega waits for its two major publicity exercises to get underway (James Bond movie, Olympic Games), they’ve delivered the Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black. That’s not a typo; so blacked-out is the latest version of Bond’s watch that one “Black” wouldn’t do. The watch’s dial is made from black ceramic, as is the minute track around its edge. The use of two different colour lumes on the Black Black’s indices and hands means it’s not impossible to tell the time.

omegawatches.com

Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385

Much more than just a sepia-tinted throwback, Zenith’s latest Chronomaster is a genuine reissue of one of the original three stainless-steel El Primero models from 1969. The original tonneau-shaped A385 featured a brown gradient dial—possibly the first “smoked” dial ever made. This year’s A385 uses the production plans from the initial model, to wit: a 37mm case, pump-style pushers and, if you opt for metal over calf leather, a stainless-steel ladder-style bracelet.

zenith-watches.com

Rolex Explorer + Explorer II

Updates to Rolex models can seem to offer a new definition of the word “incremental”. Not so in 2021. The brand resisted giving its Explorer the precious metal treatment for 68 years. Finally, it caved. Not only has the watch been reduced to its original 36mm size, the Explorer is available in two-tone—a streak of yellow-gold contrasts against cool, utilitarian stainless steel. Less obvious are the revisions to the updated Explorer II. The watch features the same case size but is now equipped with Rolex’s latest-gen movement.

rolex.com

Ulysse Nardin UFO Table Clock 

The dive watch specialist is celebrating its 175th anniversary, a milestone it marks with the Unidentified Floating Object, geddit? The table clock is said to contain all of Ulysse Nardin’s horological history in one object, from marine chronometers of the 19th and 20th centuries to the brand’s silicon-escapement-equipped wristwatches of the 21st century. CEO Patrick Pruniaux asked his watchmakers what a marine chronometer would look like in 175 years’ time. The UFO was their answer.

ulysse-nardin.com

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968G

Although the green Nautilus is certainly noteworthy. The hype machine that powers it has seen it skyrocket beyond the logic of most watch collectors. Instead, Robb Report is partial to the Aquanaut ref. 5968-G. Here the first-ever white gold Aquanaut chronograph in the khaki dial colour is a stylish addition to the wrist with the automatic calibre CH 28-520 C movement powering the watch. The 42.2mm case is water-resistant to 120-metres and showcases Patek’s otherworldy attention to detail.

patek.com

Bremont Argonaut Azure

It’s already been a busy year for British brand Bremont. Not only did the watchmaker become the official timing partner to Formula 1 team Williams Racing, it also opened a sprawling new Manufacturing and Technology Centre as part of its 19-year quest to produce proprietary movements in the UK. There have also been watches, like the Argonaut Azure. A striking blue dial meets a 42mm hardened steel case and a bright-orange strap.

bremont.com

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms ‘No Radiations’ 

The new Fifty Fathoms ‘No Rad’ offers a 40.3mm stainless-steel case (a size now reserved for limited-edition novelties) fitted with a matte black dial and contrasting markings on the hour, chapter ring, hands, time scale and bezel in ‘old radium’- coloured SuperLuminova. The timepiece comes powered by Blancpain’s Calibre 1151 –  a self-winding movement that boats silicon balance spring and four-day power reserve. The watch arrives with a strap in ‘Tropic’-type rubber, a material popular with divers in the ‘60s due to its durability and general comfort.

blancpain.com

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar

The cult status of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo continues to gather pace. New for 2021 is the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, the slimmest example of the grand complication ever created—another world record for the company. The watch is just 5.8mm thick—not a lot of space to fit in a complication that will take into account the lengths of different months, as well as leap years, automatically.

bulgari.com

Grand Seiko White Birch Forest Hi-Beat

Forged in the brand’s manufacture in Shizukuishi, Japan, the dial of Grand Seiko’s White Birch Forest Hi-Beat has been made to resemble the birch tre-es that grow in the surrounding forests. The watch houses a high-beat movement with an 80-hour power reserve, which is accurate to an impressive +5 to -3 seconds per day. You can watch the calibre do its thing through an exhibition case-back.

grand-seiko.com

Hermès H08

There was a time when Hermès was a brand more closely associated with horses than horology. Yet the Parisian leather goods specialist has been noiselessly delivering whimsical wristwatches for several years now. There’s a lot going on with the brand’s new H08. Circles in squares, matt on gloss, orange on black, vulcanised rubber on DLC-coated titanium, a fun, characterful numeral font, and a tiny date window at half past four. It’s a winner. Tactile. Graphic. Multifaceted. Mathematic, even.

hermes.com

Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921

“Classic with a twist”. That’s Vacheron Constantin’s theme for 2021. So it stands to reason that the storied horologist would choose this year to revive one the most avant-garde timepieces. It helps that the diagonal-dial Reference 11677 is celebrating its centenary. Three faithfully reinterpreted versions have been revealed, including a dazzling 40mm white gold edition. True to the original, the timepiece features a manually-wound movement housed in a case that’s just 8mm thick.

vacheron-constantin.com

Cartier Tank Must

Based on the Tank Louis Cartier of 1922, the original Tank Must debuted in 1977 with a rectangular case and a mechanical hand-wound movement. Well, now the Must is back, replacing the discontinued Tank Solo. There are 17 references in total, split across three case sizes, which are available in steel or precious metals, and housing both mechanical and quartz movements. Most noteworthy of all, perhaps, was the announcement that Cartier is working on a movement that will be powered, in part, by light.

cartier.com

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Minerality in Wine, Explained: How It Affects Taste, Aroma and Texture

And an exploration of the regions that produce great mineral-driven varietals.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 07/05/2024

If you have taken part in a wine tasting, read an article about wine, or even glanced at the back label of a bottle of wine, you have likely encountered the word minerality. But defining what that means exactly is where the problems can start—even wine experts disagree on what it is and how it expresses itself in the glass.

Minerality refers to a flavour profile and often a palpable sensation in the mouth. The flavours generally involve rocks or fossils, such as stone, river rock, flint, gravel, slate, asphalt and oyster shell. There is also a sense of salinity, often derived from volcanic soils, that is a component of mineral-driven wines. This is different from other earthy flavours such as forest floor or peat. When we host tastings, very few people will own up to having licked rocks as a child, but almost everyone has gotten a stray bit of oyster or clam shell in their mouth and can recall the taste and texture. Most of us can remember the scent of a chalkboard or pencil lead from our childhood, and even those who have never fired a gun are familiar with flint or gunpowder from firecrackers.

When minerality is discussed, it is often a quality ascribed to white wine such as Riesling, Assyrtiko, Sauvignon Blanc or Burgundian Chardonnay. We may not hear about minerality in red wine so much because the oak used for maturation may mask the flavours and aromas associated with minerality. However, two reds sometimes described as having mineral qualities are those from the volcanic soils of Mount Etna in Sicily and the shale and quartz vineyards of Priorat in Spain. A prime example of the mineral-driven style is Chablis in the northernmost reaches of Burgundy, whose wines are made with 100 percent Chardonnay. The wines have a distinctly different character than the oaky, buttery style prevalent in Napa Valley and further south in Burgundy.

Walking through the vineyards of Chablis you can see abundant fossilised oyster shells that date back 150 million years to the Upper Jurassic period, when this area was at the bottom of the sea. Dig a bit; you will find calcified ammonites and spiral-shaped cephalopods from the same era. While vineyard soil is a discussion for another day, the grey limestone here is called Kimmeridgian, named for the village of Kimmeridge in Dorset, England, where it was first identified. As Thierry Bellicaud, president of Domaine Laroche in Chablis told Robb Report, “The Kimmeridgian limestone soil, which is unique to this area, delivers all needed nutrients for the balance of the vines. The terroir nurtures the vines which then express its personality in the grapes.”

Fossils from ancient seabeds contribute to the flavour of the wine.
DOMAINE LAROCHE, CHABLIS, FRANCE

Asked how soil composition influences one of Domaine Laroche’s wines, Bellicaud referenced its Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots, “Les Blanchots is a unique terroir made of a layer of white clay on Kimmeridgian limestone with ammonites. This is the ideal combination to keep the right amount of water for the roots. The southeast exposure allows slow ripening and favours aroma development. It is one of the areas in the appellation where you can easily find oyster fossils (called Exogyra virgula). The Grand Cru Les Blanchots is delicate, refined and silky in texture.”

Assyrtiko from Santorini is almost always described as possessing a mineral quality as well as a touch of salinity, which can be attributed to the black volcanic soil in which it grows as well as to the Aegean Seaspray that wafts over the island’s vineyards. Mosel Valley Riesling’s leanness and flinty character come from the red and blue limestone in which it is cultivated.

Italy’s Soave region is also known for the minerality of its wine. Alessio Inama, third-generation family leader and director of sales, marketing and communication at Inama Azienda Agricola, told Robb Report, “Soave Classico is a volcanic region with soil made up of basaltic rocks, volcanic tuffs and ashes that date back 30 million years. The soils offer minerals in their natural form, which impact the composition of the plants themselves. In the case of grape vines, the soils have a major influence on the resulting flavours of the wines, which are mineral and floral.”

Known for their scrupulous mapping of micro-plots within their vineyards, the Inamas produce several different Soave wines made with the Garganega grape. Inama I Palchi Foscarino Grande Cuvée Soave DOC is crafted from the family’s best plots on Monte Foscarino. Inama explained, “The soil of Foscarino is a mix of pure magma, ashes and basaltic rocks that deteriorated over millions of years into a dark clay that is extremely rich in minerals. The grapes from those 40-year-old vines have strong personality, great intensity and texture, delivering a complex bouquet of white flowers, citrus notes and flinty sensations.”

The Priorat wine region in Spain is known for its minerality.
SCALA DEI, PRIORAT, SPAIN

While the sensation of minerality can be less obvious in red wines, Spanish Garnacha and Sicilian Nerello Mascalese are two grapes that often exhibit it, thanks to both the locales from which they hail as well as the often-judicious use of oak. The slopes of eastern Sicily’s Mount Etna are covered with volcanic soils composed of pumice, black ash and basalt. Priorat, a region close to Barcelona in northeast Spain, is blessed with black quartz, slate and mica soils called llicorella. Here you will find vineyards covered with small fragments of black and grey striated rock sitting atop blue and red soils embedded with the same.

Ricard Rofes, winemaker at Scala Dei in Priorat, refers to its Mas Deu vineyard as one of the winery’s “jewels.” The origin of Scala Dei Tribut and Masdeu, it sits 800 meters (2,625 feet) above sea level. Rofes told Robb Report, “In this elevated area the clay and limestone soils are ideal for growing Grenache, giving the wine that touch of acidity and freshness that makes it unique. The red-clay soils and the altitude of the vineyards located in the lap of the Sierra de Montsant give it freshness and the llicorella soils impart a genuine imprint. Our wine is the pure expression of the fruit and the terroir with a distinct personality.”

 

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Best fo Europe: Six Senses, Switzerland 

Mend in the mountains at Crans-Montana.

By The Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Wellness pioneer Six Senses made a name for itself with tranquil, mostly tropical destinations. Now, its first alpine hotel recreates that signature mix of sustainable luxury and innovative spa therapeutics in a world-class ski setting. 

The ski-in, ski-out location above the gondola of one of Switzerland’s largest winter sports resorts allows guests to schuss from the top of the Plaine Morte glacier to the hotel’s piste-side lounge, where they can swap ski gear for slippers, then head straight to the spa’s bio-hack recovery area to recharge with compression boots, binaural beats and an herb-spiked mocktail. In summer, the region is a golf and hiking hub. 

The vibe offers a contemporary take on chalet style. The 78 rooms and suites are decorated in local larch and oak, and all have terraces or balconies with alpine views over the likes of the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. With four different saunas, a sensory flotation pod, two pools
and a whimsical relaxation area complete with 15,000 hanging “icicles” and views of a birch forest, the spa at Six Senses Crans-Montana makes après ski an afterthought.

You can even sidestep the cheese-heavy cuisine of this region in favour of hot pots and sushi at the property’s Japanese restaurant, Byakko. Doubles from around $1,205; Sixsenses.com

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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Best of Europe: Grand Hotel Des Étrangers

Fall for a Baroque beauty in Syracuse, Italy.

By Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Sicily has seen a White Lotus–fuelled surge in bookings for this summer—a pop-culture fillip to fill up its grandes dames hotels. Skip the gawping crowds at the headline-grabbers, though, and opt instead for an insider-ish alternative: the Grand Hotel des Étrangers, which reopened last summer after a gut renovation.

It sits on the seafront on the tiny island of Ortigia in Syracuse, all cobbled streets and grand buildings, like a Baroque time capsule on Sicily’s southeastern coast. 

Survey the entire streetscape here from the all-day rooftop bar-restaurant, Clou, where the fusion menu is a shorthand of Sicily’s pan-Mediterranean history; try the spaghetti with bottarga and wild fennel or the sea bass crusted in anchovies. Idle on the terrace alfresco with a snifter of avola, the rum made nearby. 

Image: Benedetto Tarantino

As for the rooms, they’ve been renovated with Art Deco–inflected interiors—think plenty of parquet and marble—but the main asset is their aspect: the best of them have private balconies and a palm tree-fringed view out over the Ionian Sea. Doubles from around $665; desetranger.com

 

 

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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