Robb Read: Why Livestream Video May Be the Future of Luxury Shopping

With in-person shopping increasingly difficult, the luxury sector is pivoting to video.

By Martin Lerma 09/11/2020

In early August, with coronavirus cases across the United States on an uptick, Moda Operandi was trying something new. The online luxury retailer’s unique take on the trunk show model, whereby clients pre-order clothes straight from the catwalk, helped set it apart from other retailers right from its outset. But with standard runway shows out of the question for public health concerns, it started a series of livestreaming events, Moda Live, in which designers took centre stage along with their latest creations.

“All of the brands we’ve engaged about Moda Live have been very receptive to the concept––they see this as an opportunity to communicate directly with their customers in a way they never have before,” a senior Moda representative told Robb Report. “Early feedback shows that clients place value in hearing directly from the designer and seeing the clothes live on-model––it helps them better understand the story behind the collection and how an individual piece fits and moves.”

It’s almost startling to consider that a relatively young retailer which operates almost exclusively on the web––an area many luxury brands still haven’t fully embraced––has been pushed to experiment with digital like never before. Some of the technology is so new, many of its purveyors didn’t even exist a couple of years ago. But it further underscores a reality that the pandemic has brought into sharp relief: How we purchase things is changing—and how sellers evolve accordingly is happening faster than ever.

Moda Live sale excerpt

Moda Live allows customers to interact directly with a designer like never before. Courtesy of Moda Operandi

At a time when even a trip to the grocery store seems primed with invisible danger, we’re looking at shopping––for both necessities and luxuries––through a different lens. Not only has our newfound reliance on online stores meant some digital retailers are struggling to keep up with our demand, but it’s also put major stress on some of retail’s most enduring institutions.

Even before the phrase Covid-19 was common parlance, there was growing tension between the established fashion system and realigning customer priorities. Barneys, that iconic temple of New York City cool, may have been the canary in the coal mine when, after struggling for years, it finally shuttered at the beginning of 2020.

Since the pandemic started, store closures and social distancing measures—coupled with job losses and a general sense of economic uncertainty—have forced retailers like Lord & Taylor to file for bankruptcy. Even too-big-to-fail LVMH has suffered an overall loss this year.

So it’s perhaps no surprise that a multi-brand retailer like Moda Operandi is an early adopter to new methods of connecting with customers, and especially in the virtual world, one of a few areas that seem poised for success. According to LivePitch founder Brian Byun, who doesn’t work with Moda Operandi, that change is a long time coming.

LivePitch, a video-based shopping platform where consumers can interact with creators and discover new products, was partially inspired by Byun’s first experience on a Peleton bike. Byun was enchanted and that first ride got his own wheels turning.

“It was magical; I felt like I was actually in the studio”, Byun told Robb Report. “I got very intrigued and started to think, ‘What are the adjacent areas where you could do something around e-commerce?’” Byun and his LivePitch co-founder Denis O’Flynn O’Brien felt that the digital shopping experience had become stagnant, relying on the same five-star rating system and tepid product shots widely used for well over a decade. They launched their app, where brands, retailers or other creators could form their own channels, at the beginning of the year. And then the coronavirus officially became a pandemic.

Gucci Live

Gucci Live is helping established customers gain intimate access to the brand’s latest designs. Courtesy of Gucci

Suddenly, with retailers forced to shut and many unprepared to have a meaningful digital presence, the idea of an app that makes live video shoppable had new meaning. “How retail stores are designed, you want to have as many people in them as possible, but in a post-Covid-19 world, that doesn’t make sense,” said O’Flynn O’Brien. Indeed, both social distancing and sheltering in place makes the means of traditional shopping impossible, but they provided LivePitch (and what will likely soon include a wave of other startups) an opportunity.

Unlike the other avenues currently available, LivePitch allows for the closest approximation of an in-store experience yet. Byun explained that one of the aspects customers love most is having an informative buying experience that’s also tailored and conversational. Plus, merchants love how dramatically live video contributes to sales. According to Byun, a live video component can boost sales on a given product by as much as 400 per cent, something he attributes to the energy offered by its interactive nature. (Moda’s representative anecdotally supports how much of an impact live-stream shopping can have. “It’s still early on––we’ve held two events so far––but what we can see is that the client is more engaged after a Moda Live event, either through a significant uptick in sales and/or add-to-carts in the 24 hours after an event,” she said.)

Hublot Virtual Boutique

Hublot’s Virtual Boutique lets you connect with a watch specialist one-on-one. Hublot

Some large luxury brands are investing in a more serious relationship with video. Since 2018, the Swiss watch house Hublot has offered clients its Virtual Boutique, through which you can have a live, one-on-one conversation with in-house specialists. Through your phone or computer, the specialist uses an array of cameras to give you an up-close look at the timepieces you’re interested in—and can even display detailed 3-D diagrams of their inner workings.

Gucci Live operates out of the company’s global services hubs, where detailed sets and camera setups give everything that added touch. The Florentine label launched the service as a means to connect directly with customers during the pandemic, but, unlike LivePitch, it is not an exploratory platform open to all and does not (ironically considering its name) specialise in live video.

LivePitch seller

LivePitch allows sellers of all kinds to create immersive yet socially distant customer experiences. Courtesy of LivePitch

It’s a small start, but with the advent of 5G wireless technology, LivePitch will soon be able to take on far more advanced programs, like streaming high-fidelity video, according to Byun. Closely related to that development is intense interest in augmented reality and virtual reality shopping tools, especially as in-store sales are expected to take a long time to recover. According to the International Data Corp., investment in those technologies will jump 79 per cent to total US$18.8 billion in 2020.

With the blockbuster news that industry stalwart Neiman Marcus and the jewel in its retail crown, Bergdorf Goodman, are going into bankruptcy, it is precisely this kind of technological innovation that could force the luxury sector to take note. Brands like Chanel have refused for years to sell products other than fragrances and cosmetics online, but 21st-century consumer habits are quickly forcing their hand. The reluctance to embrace new technology has made luxury houses particularly vulnerable to the ravages of the pandemic––the sector is estimated to lose as much as US$40 billion with many smaller labels likely to close entirely.

Despite undergoing Chapter 11 proceedings, some stores are figuring out ways to keep customers shopping. A limited number of Neiman’s flagship stores are operating again, many with curbside pickup, a service Nordstrom also offers. Suitsupply is taking an approach that seems almost medical at first glance, installing clear in-store partitions that allow for hands-on alterations while keeping associates and customers physically separated. Whether these measures will be enough to assuage fears (on either side of the transaction) remains unclear.

suitsupply safety covid

Suitsupply has installed protective partitions to protect customers and its staff during fittings. Courtesy of Suitsupply

According to a survey conducted by analytics company First Insight, 54 per cent of men polled said they would not feel safe in a dressing room. The same percentage said they wouldn’t feel comfortable interacting with sales associates. And even if customers do begin returning, some stores have started implementing specific policies, like one issued by Macy’s, that prevents them from trying on dress shirts and limits the number of people allowed inside at a time. A survey by Jefferies found that 50 per cent of respondents said they planned to shop for clothes in-store after the pandemic—but will avoid dressing rooms. Collectively, this could give the notion of window shopping a new meaning. It could also change the way we try on and buy clothes forever.

“If you look at the next 5 to 10 years, our mobile devices are going to be powerful enough to handle AR and VR at a higher level and other technologies are going to be used to explain products to customers as well,” said Byun. “Without going to the store, you’re going to be able to see what you’d look like in a tuxedo––all those things are within the realm of what’s possible today.”

But the most thrilling thing about these changes may be that it has industry-changing implications outside the world of retail.

“With the advent of new technology with 5G, that gives us the ability that wasn’t there previously to livestream high-fidelity video,” said O’Flynn O’Brien. “And that opens up experiences that are not necessarily product-related, but experience-related.”

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Best fo Europe: Six Senses, Switzerland 

Mend in the mountains at Crans-Montana.

By The Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Wellness pioneer Six Senses made a name for itself with tranquil, mostly tropical destinations. Now, its first alpine hotel recreates that signature mix of sustainable luxury and innovative spa therapeutics in a world-class ski setting. 

The ski-in, ski-out location above the gondola of one of Switzerland’s largest winter sports resorts allows guests to schuss from the top of the Plaine Morte glacier to the hotel’s piste-side lounge, where they can swap ski gear for slippers, then head straight to the spa’s bio-hack recovery area to recharge with compression boots, binaural beats and an herb-spiked mocktail. In summer, the region is a golf and hiking hub. 

The vibe offers a contemporary take on chalet style. The 78 rooms and suites are decorated in local larch and oak, and all have terraces or balconies with alpine views over the likes of the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. With four different saunas, a sensory flotation pod, two pools
and a whimsical relaxation area complete with 15,000 hanging “icicles” and views of a birch forest, the spa at Six Senses Crans-Montana makes après ski an afterthought.

You can even sidestep the cheese-heavy cuisine of this region in favour of hot pots and sushi at the property’s Japanese restaurant, Byakko. Doubles from around $1,205; Sixsenses.com

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Best of Europe: Grand Hotel Des Étrangers

Fall for a Baroque beauty in Syracuse, Italy.

By Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Sicily has seen a White Lotus–fuelled surge in bookings for this summer—a pop-culture fillip to fill up its grandes dames hotels. Skip the gawping crowds at the headline-grabbers, though, and opt instead for an insider-ish alternative: the Grand Hotel des Étrangers, which reopened last summer after a gut renovation.

It sits on the seafront on the tiny island of Ortigia in Syracuse, all cobbled streets and grand buildings, like a Baroque time capsule on Sicily’s southeastern coast. 

Survey the entire streetscape here from the all-day rooftop bar-restaurant, Clou, where the fusion menu is a shorthand of Sicily’s pan-Mediterranean history; try the spaghetti with bottarga and wild fennel or the sea bass crusted in anchovies. Idle on the terrace alfresco with a snifter of avola, the rum made nearby. 

Image: Benedetto Tarantino

As for the rooms, they’ve been renovated with Art Deco–inflected interiors—think plenty of parquet and marble—but the main asset is their aspect: the best of them have private balconies and a palm tree-fringed view out over the Ionian Sea. Doubles from around $665; desetranger.com

 

 

 

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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