The Best Watches Of 2020
A neatly held dive into the year’s ultimate releases.
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No Baselworld, an online and renamed SIHH, new rival ‘umbrella’ fairs and a firm push for direct-to-consumer marketing—it’s been difficult to truly be across the many new releases and updates that have so far landed this year. Allow us, then, to steer you towards that next purchase with 2020’s best so far.
Chopard Alpine Eagle
Chopard’s new piece meets the demands of the Swiss lifestyle—conservative business one day, active mountain sports the next, apres-ski chalet bacchanals by night. Taking its aesthetic cues from the eye of the high-flying creature its name references, proceeds from the watch’s sales go towards the Eagle Wings Foundation, supporting the preservation of the Alpine environment. Steel $19,900; duotone steel and rose gold $30,500; chopard.com
Richard Mille Yohan Blake RM 61-01 Ultimate Edition
Richard Mille’s first collaboration with sprinter Yohan Blake, the 59-01 Tourbillon, was a divisive creation, oriented to be worn on the right hand, and encased in a composite material resembling hardened kiwifruit, with yellow/green/black livery following the colourway of the Jamaican flag. This new limited edition, while still made for the lefthanded, presents a more subdued look, in high-tech black-and-white Quartz TPT and Carbon TPT. $261,000; richardmille.com
MB&F HM10 Bulldog
MB&F bring a healthy dose of whimsy to their creations. Max Busser and buddies’ latest combines next-level horological craftsmanship and engineering ingenuity with design inspired by Tom & Jerry’s canine companion, Spike—the ears formed by the crowns, the crystal domes the eyes, and the power reserve indication shaped like a toothsome jaw. The titanium or red gold caseback bears the jokey engraved legend: “Forget the dog, beware the owner.” Titanium $162,000; red gold $186,000; mbandf.com
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Twofold Double Flying Tourbillon
Eagle-eyed viewers of the brilliant Netflix series The Last Dance may have spied Roger Dubuis watches on the wrists of basketball greats Michael Jordan and Scottie Pippen. On the show, Pippen wears a Double Flying Tourbillon, valued at around $300K. We’d draw the attention of any similarly serious ballers to this new eight-piece limited edition in the line, innovative in its eye-catching use of lume across the movement, case and strap. $427,000; rogerdubuis.com
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Steel
In 2019, Omega excited aficionados by issuing a new watch featuring the seminal calibre 321, the hand-wound movement used in the original Speedmasters worn by the Apollo astronauts. Last year’s iteration was a platinum-cased limited edition with onyx dial and meteorite sub-dials, which cost around $93,000. To the delight of more parsimonious ‘Speedy’ devotees, the new, open production steel rendition can be had for less than a quarter of that price. $21,800; omegawatches.com
Hublot Big Bang Integral
Integrated-bracelet timepieces aim to seamlessly meld case and bracelet into a cohesive whole. The category, which was pioneered by Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus in the 1970s, is enormously popular today, and most major brands have something to meet the needs of integrated-bracelet fans. Hublot has only just now entered the fray, creating three integrated-bracelet iterations of the signature Big Bang model. Available in titanium, black ceramic, and King Gold (Hublot’s proprietary 18-karat red-gold alloy, which includes extra copper content and a touch of platinum to stabilise colour and neutralise oxidation), all three feature matte black skeleton dials. Titanium $32,500; gold $81,500; ceramic $35,800; hublot.com
IWC Portugieser Chronograph
IWC has anointed 2020 the year of the Portugieser, focusing on this key line—first introduced in 1939—and releasing a series of new iterations of their iconic marine chronometer-inspired model. We wager that the 2020 Portugieser chronographs will prove among the most popular of the new references. With sub-dials at 12 and 6, the latest are available in green, grey, burgundy, blue and white dials, in 41mm cases of steel or gold, providing something for all tastes. Chronographs from $13,500 (in steel) to $28,500 (in gold); iwc.com
Urwerk UR-111C TT
This 25-piece limited edition forms the latest part of a ‘family’ at Urwerk that pays tribute to a prototype timepiece Patek Philippe developed in the late 1950s, but never actually put into production. Its TT designation references the two-tone PVD and brushed stainless steel case finishes. Hours, minutes and seconds are shown across three windows on the piece’s side, while the display is slanted at 30 degrees, making this futuristic driver’s watch a cinch to read while at the wheel. $205,000; urwerk.com
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Satin-Polished Steel
Bulgari’s three-year-old Octo Finissimo model has previously been cast in avant-garde materials such as sandblasted titanium or carbon fibre. “The new satin-polished steel finishing is more suited for an everyday watch,” Bulgari Watches’ design boss Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani tells us. The thinnest time-only automatic watch available today, he calls it “a rare fusion of edgy Italian design and Swiss engineering.” $18,500; bulgari.com
Girard-Perregaux Quasar Light
Forgive the obvious pun, but the appeal of this 18-piece limited edition is clear. Its case is sculpted over the course of 200 man-hours from a solid piece of sapphire crystal, and the bridges hewn from the same notoriously tricky material, the skeletonised tourbillon movement, gem-effect ruthenium barrel and white-gold form a ghostly heart within this extraordinary creation. The price, of course, will leave you as wide-eyed as the aesthetic. $455,000; girard-perregaux.com
Breguet Classique 7337
An ultra-thin, elegant dress watch boasting day, date and moonphase displays, this is an update to an existing Breguet, rather than a completely new model. But when it ain’t broke, don’t fix it—remix it. The refreshed 7337 from watchmaking’s master classicists is now presented in a choice of either rose gold case with silvered dial, or white gold with blue dial. $66,500; breguet.com; watchswiss.com
H.Moser & Cie Streamliner
A spate of luxury steel sports watches have launched the past 12 months, vying to rival 1970s classics the Nautilus and Royal Oak. Edouard Meylan, Moser’s CEO, tells us, “The singularity of the Streamliner design stands out from the multiple other integrated-bracelet collections made in the ’70s and today.” And it’s true, thanks to its supreme ergonomics and near-seamless combination of case and bracelet. $62,000; h-moser.com
Grand Seiko Anniversary Recreations of 1960 Original
This year is the 60th anniversary of Seiko’s upmarket, craftsmanship-focused Grand Seiko The company is celebrating with a number of special editions, including these faithful reproductions of the first timepiece to carry the Grand Seiko name. Powered by a modern hand-wound movement— and at 38mm diameter, slightly larger than the original—they are available in titanium, yellow gold or platinum cases. Platinum $59,000; gold $40,000; titanium $12,500; grand-seiko.com
Breitling AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition
As its ‘Re-edition’ appellation and the 1953 dateline suggest, this vintage-styled aviator’s chronograph is a faithful recreation of a mid-20th-century pilot’s Breitling—including the 15-minute counter which helped pilots accurately time their final plane checks. Where the original 765 AVI chronograph was only produced in steel, its luxed-up modern-day counterpart can be had in steel, rose gold or platinum cases. Steel $12,500; rose gold $33,500; platinum $62,000; breitling.com
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus
When ultra-formal A. Lange & Söhne introduced the sporty steel Odysseus last year, their goal was to give devotees a casual option. “Customers would say, ‘I love Lange, but the problem is, I can’t wear your watches during my holidays,’” says director of product development, Anthony de Haas. Now, Lange presents a white-gold iteration for those seeking both sportiness and the reassuring heft of precious metal. $63,000; alange-soehne.com; watchswiss.com
Cartier Privé Tank Asymétrique
Launched in 1919, the design of Cartier’s iconic Tank watch was based on the armoured vehicles of World War I. The Asymétrique variant that followed in 1936 was intended to help operators of another newfangled machine— the automobile—more easily read the time, thanks to the off-kilter numeral positioning. New limited editions in platinum, pink and yellow gold were launched this year, and drove demand (if not jalopies). Yellow or pink gold $40,900; platinum $46,500; cartier.com
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date
This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced several novelties in the Master Control line, which launched in the early ’90s but owes a great deal style-wise to the mid-century. On the more complicated end of the spectrum, there was a Chronograph Calendar, an updated Geographic worldtimer, and a Calendar watch with moonphase, day, date and month displays. But for classicists, the fuss-free, beautifully utilitarian lines of the Master Control Date will hold the most appeal. $10,300; jaeger-lecoultre.com
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
It’s difficult to pick between the two most recent iterations of the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin from Vacheron Constantin. The choice comes down to whether one prefers their haute-horology graphic—in which case the Skeleton openworked version will tickle the fancy—or the more mysterious blue-dial edition. Either way, you’ll no doubt end up with a lust-worthy beauty. Blue dial $137,000; skeleton $178,000; vacheron-constantin.com
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept
Two years ago, Piaget presented a prototype concept piece—so delicate, journalists weren’t allowed to touch it—demonstrating their ability to build a mechanical wristwatch a mere 2mm thick (or thin, more accurately). Now, this super-svelte record-breaker has gone into production. The thinnest mechanical watch ever created is available exclusively made-to-order with nearly limitless customisation options. From $650,000, depending on customisation; piaget.com
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Best fo Europe: Six Senses, Switzerland
Mend in the mountains at Crans-Montana.
Wellness pioneer Six Senses made a name for itself with tranquil, mostly tropical destinations. Now, its first alpine hotel recreates that signature mix of sustainable luxury and innovative spa therapeutics in a world-class ski setting.
The ski-in, ski-out location above the gondola of one of Switzerland’s largest winter sports resorts allows guests to schuss from the top of the Plaine Morte glacier to the hotel’s piste-side lounge, where they can swap ski gear for slippers, then head straight to the spa’s bio-hack recovery area to recharge with compression boots, binaural beats and an herb-spiked mocktail. In summer, the region is a golf and hiking hub.
The vibe offers a contemporary take on chalet style. The 78 rooms and suites are decorated in local larch and oak, and all have terraces or balconies with alpine views over the likes of the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. With four different saunas, a sensory flotation pod, two pools
and a whimsical relaxation area complete with 15,000 hanging “icicles” and views of a birch forest, the spa at Six Senses Crans-Montana makes après ski an afterthought.
You can even sidestep the cheese-heavy cuisine of this region in favour of hot pots and sushi at the property’s Japanese restaurant, Byakko. Doubles from around $1,205; Sixsenses.com
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Best of Europe: Grand Hotel Des Étrangers
Fall for a Baroque beauty in Syracuse, Italy.
Sicily has seen a White Lotus–fuelled surge in bookings for this summer—a pop-culture fillip to fill up its grandes dames hotels. Skip the gawping crowds at the headline-grabbers, though, and opt instead for an insider-ish alternative: the Grand Hotel des Étrangers, which reopened last summer after a gut renovation.
It sits on the seafront on the tiny island of Ortigia in Syracuse, all cobbled streets and grand buildings, like a Baroque time capsule on Sicily’s southeastern coast.
Survey the entire streetscape here from the all-day rooftop bar-restaurant, Clou, where the fusion menu is a shorthand of Sicily’s pan-Mediterranean history; try the spaghetti with bottarga and wild fennel or the sea bass crusted in anchovies. Idle on the terrace alfresco with a snifter of avola, the rum made nearby.
As for the rooms, they’ve been renovated with Art Deco–inflected interiors—think plenty of parquet and marble—but the main asset is their aspect: the best of them have private balconies and a palm tree-fringed view out over the Ionian Sea. Doubles from around $665; desetranger.com
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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith
The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.
Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?
My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.
As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet.
Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.
Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut.
Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”
Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great.
Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition).
So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.
This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come.
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The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com
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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin
The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.
Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.
Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.
The origin of the Aston Martin name
The company that would become Aston Martin started out as a car dealership. In 1912, Englishmen Robert Bamford and Lionel Martin partnered to sell cars, but soon after they decided to build their own models. Their first prototype debuted in 1915, named in honour of Martin, a racing driver, and his favourite racing venue, Aston Hills. Thus, the name Aston Martin was born.
A speed-demon co-founder banned from driving
Aston Martin co-founder Lionel Martin wasn’t just a keen racing driver—he was an all-out speed demon. As a student, Martin won numerous gruelling bicycle racing records, including riding nearly the full width of England in one 22-hour stretch. He competed in motorcycle and sidecar races and automotive hillclimb competitions. It seems he also brought that need for speed to the public roadways: In 1909, having neglected to pay a previous speeding fine, Martin was caught driving 41.5 km/ph in London and was banned from driving for two years—during which he set yet another cross-country bicycle record.
A tractor company takes over
The years after World War I were tumultuous for Aston Martin, with financial difficulties and numerous takeovers. In 1947, Aston Martin went up for sale and was purchased by David Brown Limited, a company that specialised in farm tractors and industrial gears. Sir David Brown, grandson of the company’s founder, was a lifelong car enthusiast and racer, having built his own competition cars while working as an engineer at the family company. The first car built by Aston Martin after this takeover was called the DB1, named after the tractor company (and the man) that had saved the carmaker.
An indirect connection to Bentley
Around the same time that Sir David Brown took over Aston Martin, he purchased another struggling British carmaker, Lagonda. The company was developing a revolutionary twin-cam six-cylinder engine called the LB6, and Sir David wanted the engine for his new line of Aston Martin sports cars. The Lagonda engine had been designed by none other than W.O. Bentley—the man who co-founded Bentley Motors, who had long since been pushed out of the company bearing his name.
The history of the DB Series
Aston Martin built seven vehicles named in honour of owner Sir David Brown: The DB1, DB2, DB3, DB4, DB5, DB6, and the combo-breaker DBS all bore Sir David’s initials. In 1972, Sir David sold the car company, and the new owners ended the DB series of vehicles, but the name was revived in 1993 with the DB7 in honour of Sir David—who himself was given an honorary position at the company that same year.
Bond, James Bond
Of course, the most famous Aston Martin of them all is the DB5. Just over 1,000 examples were built between 1963 and 1965, but millions worldwide know this as the James Bond car. In the books, author Ian Fleming had specified an earlier Aston Martin DB Mark III as Bond’s car. Still, the DB5 was introduced in the 1964 Bond film Goldfinger, equipped with gadgets including machine guns, smoke screens, oil slicks, an ejector seat, and rotating license plates. Bond has driven several Aston Martin models over the years, including a V8 Vantage, a V12 Vanquish, and two DBS models, but the original DB5 will always be considered the quintessential Bond car.
The angular years
Today, the Aston Martin badge is most closely associated with swooping, evocatively curvy car designs, but in the 1970s the company was obsessed with angular, wedge-shaped designs. The trend began in 1976 with the Aston Martin Lagonda, a shockingly unconventional four-door luxury sedan with “folded-paper” body styling and the world’s first all-digital instrument panel. The Lagonda’s styling was further evolved in 1979 with the Bulldog, a radical concept car with gullwing doors and a sharply pointed nose. The Bulldog was meant to become the fastest road car on earth, but the project was abandoned before production could begin.
For Bond’s eyes only
While most of James Bond’s Aston Martins have been commercially available to anyone who could afford one, the DB10 seen in the 2015 film Spectre was exclusive to 007. As Aston Martin executive Marek Reichman explained to Variety, director Sam Mendes, producer Barbara Broccoli, and Bond star Daniel Craig were touring Aston Martin’s design studios when they saw a concept sketch on the wall. The Bond team insisted that this should be 007’s next car, and Aston Martin spent the next six months furiously working to turn the drawing into a real-world car. The DB10 was unveiled during the launch of the film Spectre, and eight of the 10 examples built were featured in the movie, with the remaining two used for promotional appearances.
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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip
The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season.
Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.
Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.
“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”
During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.
“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.
Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”
While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.
