Eight Of The Best Watch Complications Of 2020

At the year’s midway point we take note of our favourite complex timepieces so far.

By Celine Yap 06/07/2020

Welcome to horology’s upper crust. The exalted and glorious realm where tourbillons, repeaters and perpetual calendars come out and play, sometimes commingling in twos and threes within a single timepiece known as a grand complication.

Granted, Covid-19 might have dampened the mood at the start of this new watch year but still the pandemic hasn’t stopped some brands from forging ahead with their horological best. It’s called perseverance. These are the eight timepieces caught our eye.

Parmigiani Toric Tourbillon Slate

parmigianiThis elegant timepiece by Parmigiani Fleurier comes with an Hermès Havane leather strap

The look is pure and classic but with Parmigiani you know there will always be more than meets the eye. Here we’re treated to a beautiful Toric case in rose gold featuring a concave knurled bezel and a lovely slate grey dial that’s covered with beautiful barley-grain guilloché. The Toric, as you might know, is the first watch case designed by Michel Parmigiani himself, and first introduced in 1996.

Inside the watch is the ultra-thin in-house manufacture Calibre PF517 comprising a platinum micro-rotor, bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève, and a breathtaking flying tourbillon regulator at seven o’clock. To keep the piece as slim as possible, the tourbillon was, in fact, integrated in the movement’s main plate. Notice its very minimalist tourbillon cage equipped with a blue-steel arm which functions as the small seconds. This is a discreet but sure indicator of the movement’s high and consistent accuracy.

Priced approx. $190,000; parmigiani.com

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater

Bvlgari's Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater

Strictly speaking, this watch is not entirely new. The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater made its first appearance in 2015 dressed in titanium – so not only was it ultra-thin, it was ultra-light. Next came a forged carbon model that swept us off our feet with its avant-garde aesthetics. Today, this timepiece re-emerges decked out in the full finery of 18k rose gold.

Yet with Bvlgari being such a stickler for details, the new model appears a little different from the usual rose gold repeaters we’re used to seeing. This is because of the full matte finish applied to all surfaces of this multi-faceted case. Coupled with the perforated dial, the watch gains a very posh but technical aesthetic that’s actually quite refreshing in the realm of minute repeaters. Now all that’s left to ask is: how does it sound? And if it’s anything like its predecessors, you’re in good hands.

Priced approx. $244,600; bulgari.com

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept

With TVs, phones and laptops all getting slimmer, wouldn’t it make perfect sense for our watches to do likewise? But it’s one thing to present a concept watch and quite another to actually bring a working model to fruition. This was precisely what Piaget did with the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, spending six years of intensive R&D to get the timepiece out of the lab and onto its customers’ wrists.

Thus suffice it to say, at a very svelte 2mm, this is hands down the world’s thinnest mechanical watch. Even the crown disappears neatly into the case, which is a major innovation versus the original Calibre 12P. The watch’s crystal as well is paper-thin, while complete reconstruction of the barrel, energy regulation, placement of the hands and dial all contributed to achieving this magnificent feat.

Priced approx. $609,000; piaget.com

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split Seconds Chronograph – Tempo

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split Seconds Chronograph – Tempo

Sometimes you do have to wonder why watchmakers constantly try to pack more and more complications into a timepiece. At Vacheron Constantin, they do it simply because they can. With this year’s Les Cabinotiers watches, the manufacture presented a wristwatch with two dials offering a whopping 24 complications. Thanks to an ingenious strap attachment system that makes the case reversible, both dials are easily accessible to the wearer.

Together, they offer the chronograph hours and measurements plus perpetual calendar on the front, followed by the astronomical functions such as solar time, equation of time, sunrise/sunset, day/night indication, and moon phases on the back. Also there is the splendid tourbillon regulator and a minute repeater complication, which unfortunately remains hidden. But asking for it to be on display, when there’s already so much to see, is just sheer greed on our part.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication

10 years after marrying the minute repeater flying tourbillon with an astronomical display, Jaeger-LeCoultre reprises this dazzling combination in the Master Grande Tradition collection. But this time the manufacture ups the ante with a beautifully handcrafted gold disc that shows us a hint of the immense handcraftsmanship mastered at its illustrious Métiers Rares department.

Well within Calibre 945 are a number of poetic complications. If the orbiting flying tourbillon is a satellite, then the delicate filigree dome forms the entire solar system – or perhaps the stars and constellations spread across the velvety night sky? We also find a star chart depicting the Northern hemisphere as seen from the 46th parallel, which is the exact latitude of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s manufacture in the Swiss Vallée de Joux.

Priced approx. $552,400 rose gold, $682,400 white gold; jaeger-lecoutre.com

Omega De Ville Tourbillon Numbered Edition

Omega De Ville Tourbillon Numbered Edition

It takes just one look to single out this stunning Omega timepiece as a watch unlike anything else on the market. First of all, it’s not every day that Omega releases a grand complication. Then there’s the fact that this fascinating timepiece places the tourbillon smack in the middle of the dial. And it’s got the Omega signature Co-Axial Master Chronometer certification to boot. This means that not only is it astoundingly beautiful, it is chronometrically precise and practically amagnetic.

Although this isn’t the first time Omega presented the Central Tourbillon, it has been a while since we last saw this beauty in the news – and Omega certainly did an amazing job face-lifting the watch. Unlike other amagnetic timepieces, this one comes with a sapphire case back so everything on the inside can be seen and admired. Omega has also featured two new precious alloys with this model: Canopus gold and Sedna gold.

Priced approx. $240,000; omegawatches.com

H. Moser & Cie x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon

H Moser & Cie x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon

A unique collaboration unlike any other, this awe-inspiring model is the product of a meeting of two creative minds, Max Büsser and Edouard Meylan. It is also a symbol of solidarity among independent watchmakers and a work of watchmaking art. Essentially, the best of H. Moser meets the best of MB&F, in a bevy of gorgeous colours.

See how the beautiful H Moser fumé dials add a three-dimensional effect to the piece. Then go up close and gaze upon the spectacular cylindrical tourbillon which has been manufactured in-house by H. Moser-owned Precision Engineering. You’ll recall seeing this component in the MB&F Thunderdome. Finally, by placing the hours and minutes on a sapphire dial set at a 45-degree incline is sheer design genius. No matter which angle you’re viewing the timepiece, it’s going to take your breath away.

Priced at approx.  $114,000; hmoser.com

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Diabolus In Machina

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Diabolus In Machina

For a brand that espouses extravagant notions of luxury, Roger Dubuis actually also believes in less in more. Case in point? The Excalibur Diabolus In Machina is just one of two new watches launched in 2020, but this technical heavyweight delivers everything from technical prowess to material innovation without breaking a sweat. Most impressively, the entire watch bears the prestigious Geneva Seal which certifies top-notch finishing, precision, and craftsmanship.

As it offers a contemporary take on high watchmaking, Roger Dubuis delivers a robust striking mechanism upgraded with specialised devices to protect the movement from accidental mishandling. They include a function selector, a push-piece equipped with the all-or-nothing feature, and a special disc that ensures that the watch always chimes the right time. Activate the repeater to hear them tuned to C and G flat as a tribute to the beautiful but notoriously outlawed Diabolus in Musica.

Priced approx. $887,000; rogerdubuis.com

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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Bill Henson Show Opens at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery

Dark, grainy and full of shadows Bill Henson’s latest show draws on 35 mm colour film shot in New York City in 1989.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 20/04/2024

Bill Henson is one of Australia’s best-known contemporary photographers. When a show by this calibre of artist opens here, the art world waits with bated breath to see what he will unveil.

This time, he presents a historically important landscape series that chronicles a time in New York City that no longer exists. It’s a nostalgic trip back in time, a nocturnal odyssey through the frenetic, neon-lit streets of a long-lost America.

Known for his chiaroscuro style, Henson’s cinematic photographs often transform his subject into ambiguous objects of beauty. This time round, the show presents a mysterious walk through the streets of Manhattan, evoking a seedy, yet beautiful vision of the city. 

Bill Henson Untitled, 1989. Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley Gallery
Installation shot of Bill Henson’s show,’The Liquid Night’ at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery.

Relying on generative gaps, these landscapes result from Henson mining his archive of negatives and manipulating them to produce a finished print. Sometimes, they are composed by a principle of magnification, with Henson honing in on details, and sometimes, they are created through areas of black being expanded to make the scene more cinematic and foreboding. Like silence in a film or the pause in a pulse, the black suggests the things you can’t see. 

Bill Henson, Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery
Bill Henson, Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery
Bill Henson Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery

Henson’s illustrious career has spanned four decades and was memorably marred by controversy over a series of nude adolescent photographs shown in 2008, which made him front-page news for weeks. This series of portraits made Henson the subject of a police investigation during which no offence was found. 

In recent years, Henson has been a sharp critic of cancel culture, encouraging artists to contribute something that will have lasting value and add to the conversation, rather than tearing down the past.

Untitled 2/1, 1990-91 from the series Paris Opera Project type C photograph 127 x 127 cm; series of 50 Edition of 10 + AP 2

His work deals with the liminal space between the mystical and the real, the seen and unseen, the boundary between youth and adulthood.

His famous Paris Opera Project, 1990-91, pictured above, is similarly intense as the current show, dwelling on the border between the painterly and the cinematic.

Bill Henson’s ‘The Liquid Night’ runs until 11 May 2024 at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery.

Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery, 8 Soudan Ln, Paddington NSW; roslynoxley9.com.au 

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