The 7 Best Men’s Watches of Baselworld 2019

There were few groundbreaking releases this year, but some managed to rise above the pack.

By Paige Reddinger 02/04/2019

Baselworld, Switzerland’s largest watch and jewellery trade show, has seen its number of exhibitors decline over the years and this year was smaller than ever after Swatch Group (as well as some other brands like Corum) announced it would no longer exhibit at the show. Swatch Group owns 18 watch and jewellery brands so its absence made a significant impact. Overall, however, the waning attendance of the show was topped off with lacklustre debuts that, mostly, did not move the needle in terms of innovative product and design. Many of the new releases included small updates in materials or movements on existing models. Production in the Swiss watch industry moves slowly, so that may say more about what was going on economically in 2017 or the beginning of 2018 than it does about anything else. It may also mean that brands are saving new releases for later on in the year.

That being said, there were still a few stars of the show that deserve highlighting. We’ll be going into more depth about these pieces later, but for now these are the watches of Baselworld 2019 that you should be keeping your eye on or scrambling to get on your wrist. And you can expect every one of these to be tough to get, limited or not.

Greubel Forsey

Greubel Forsey GMT Quadruple Tourbillon
Courtesy of Greubel Forsey

The first version of Greubel Forsey’s masterful GMT timepiece was launched in 2011 and was known for its incredible finishing that included graining, beveling, black polishing, lapping, and frosting—showing off Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey’s mastery of 200-year-old English and French techniques for which the brand has become known. It was also notable for its 3D globe that indicated the earth’s rotation in real time. The watchmaking duo unveiled a new version last year called the GMT Earth (one of Robb Report‘s Best of the Best 2018 timepieces), which was equipped with a mechanism similar to the original GMT movement but came with a new redesign and a window on the side of the case that showed another view of the 3D globe.

This year Greubel Forsey took its GMT to the next level with a quadruple tourbillon. Since the launch of their Double Tourbillon 30° with their debut watch in 2004, the company has made it a bit of a mission to constantly re-imagine the tourbillon (the Quadruple Tourbillon followed in 2005 and the Tourbillon 23 seconds in 2006). This year they merged the ingenuity of their GMT watch with their mastery of the tourbillon in the new GMT Quadruple Tourbillon. It’s a clever homage to the invention created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801 to remedy the effects of earth’s gravity on a timepiece—here the tourbillons gravitate around the earth.

Patek Philippe Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A

Patek Philippe Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A
Courtesy of Patek Philippe

This is the first Calatrava in steel (approximately $47,000), not in a limited series, in 70 years. That in and of itself will be a reason for collectors to want to get their hands on this watch (and it’s one they might actually be able to unlike other Patek Philippe introductions). But a deeper look at this 40mm by 10.79mm watch reveals it’s housing a new self-winding base calibre, a semi-integrated weekly calendar calibre 26-330 movement—based on the self-winding calibre 324, which took years of development. It tells the day of the week, the date at a three o’clock aperture, and the month, and comes with a 53-week indicator. (That number accounts for years with an extra week, which happens every five to six years, with the next occurrence happening in 2020.) The icing on this cake is that its unusual numerals were actually based on the handwriting of one of its designers. It adds something to this watch’s retro appeal, in a nod to two things threatened with extinction: the art of handwriting and the art of timekeeping.

Chopard LUC Flying T

Chopard L.U.C. Flying T Twin
Courtesy of Chopard

This is Chopard’s first calibre with a flying tourbillon and they made sure to do it justice not only with a hand-guilloché dial with a snailed design around the chapter ring and a centre circle with a honeycomb motif first used by the watchmaker in 2017 on the L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer edition. It’s also a nod to the first logo used by Louis-Ulysse Chopard—a beehive. The chronometer-certified movement also features a stop seconds function and comes with an official Poinçon de Genève certification for quality and finishing.

But there’s more to extract from this timepiece beyond the dial and its new high complication—both come housed in a 40 mm x 7.2 mm case made from 18-karat fairmined rose gold. Chopard is one of the few watchmakers committed to ethically mined gold and the L.U.C Flying T Twin is crafted from a single block of it. Chopard’s gold ensures that both the environment where it is sourced and the miners who work to deliver it are treated fairly. The company also reinvests money back into local community projects. It is a commitment that Chopard has pledged since July of last year and it has certainly set them a step above the rest.

Zenith El Primero Revival A386

Zenith El Primero Revival A386
Courtesy of Zenith

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the El Primero, Zenith launched a special collector’s box of three watches representing the past, the present, and the future of its famous movement. The past was represented by a stainless steel recreation of the original timepiece that housed the movement at its birth, the present was a Chronomaster 2 El Primero, and the future was a Defy El Primero 21 Chronograph—the latest version of the model released in 2017, which took the original El Primero’s 36,000 mph frequency and multiplied it by 10 making it the first mechanical watch able to measure times up to 1/100th of a second. The box set, limited to 50, was an immediate collector’s darling and has already sold out. So for Baselworld, Zenith came back with new iterations of its most popular model—the original, of course—in white gold, rose gold, and yellow gold. At 38mm by 12.6mm it wears as retro as it looks.

The El Primero has a ton of history, so for now, we’ll do a quick-ish summary. After seven years of development, Zenith’s (known as Zenith-Movado at the time) El Primero was launched 50 years ago on January 10th, 1969 marking the first time a high-frequency (36,000 vibrations per hour) automatic chronograph hit the market. Until then, Seiko and the Chronomatic Group, which was comprised of brands Hamilton-Buren, Breitling, Heuer, and Dubois Dépraz had all been competing and racing to develop the first automatic chronograph. That same year, the quartz crisis took hold. Seiko unveiled the world’s first quartz watch on December 25, 1969. Two years later in 1971, Zenith was sold to Zenith Radio Corporation, the Chicago-based manufacturer of radios and television. Production of the El Primero waned as quartz took over the world and was eventually ended by 1974. With extraordinary foresight Zenith watchmaker, Charles Vermot, realizing its importance, safeguarded the tools necessary to make the movement.

Enter the crown—in the early ’80s, Ebel and Rolex played a major role in reviving the El Primero. Ebel was first in 1981, when head honcho Pierre-Alain Blum wanted to offer an automatic chronograph in his catalogue. Rolex followed, equipping its Daytona models with the El Primero calibre. Vermot’s tools allowed Zenith to quickly restart production on the scale required for Rolex. Those El Primero Daytona rollies have since become coveted watches. Back when the Rolex El Primero Daytona Ref. 16520 was released it was about $3300 (around $4600)…it now retails for over $20,000 (approximately $28,100) .

The new trio of Zenith El Primero throwbacks retail for 19,900 CHF (approximately $28,000 at current exchange), but once they’re gone—and assuming Zenith doesn’t continue to update these in years to come—these timepieces, limited to 50 in each metal, will one day see an ROI that could be as impressive as a Ref. 16520.

Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition

Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition
Courtesy of Breitling

Another retro edition popped up at Baselworld in Breitling’s Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition and you can thank Breitling collector Fred Mandelbaum for this one. The collector was part of the development and relaunch of this particular model. The watch, according to Mandelbaum’s Instagram @watchfred, is as true to the original as when it left the manufacture for sale 60 years ago—that includes its dimensions, design, and finishing. Breitling went so far as to match even the smallest details to the original like the number of beads around the bezel (94, to be exact to the 1959 model) and the unsigned winged logo, which was used only for the European market (an AOPA-signed logo was used on watches sold in the U.S.).

The only thing new here, other than SuperLuminova markings and water resistance of 30 metres is a new in-house manufacture movement, the calibre B09, which is based on its inherent-house manufacture calibre 01 and is a COSC-certified chronometer and Breitling says the movement will power many of its hand-wound historical re-editions to come. That means there will be more re-editions in the future but whether they will be as accurate to the original as this one remains to be seen.

At $8600 (around $12,000) this 40.9mm x 12.43mm watch is definitively the more affordable of the re-editions and only 1,959 pieces will be available.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Carbon

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Ceramic
Courtesy of Bulgari

This year Bulgari continued forging on with its quest for thinness and came out with the world’s thinnest automatic chronograph at 6.9mm slim. It comes in a sandblasted titanium and is a follow up to last year’s groundbreaking October Finissmio collection debut (Robb Report‘s Best of the Best timepieces for 2018), but our personal favourite of the new Octo Finissimo watches keeps it clean and straight-up minimalist modern—the Octo Finissimo black ceramic three-hand. It comes in a skeleton version, which is mighty impressive but something about the modernity of this design calls for a clean and simple timepiece that can be worn at every hour of the day. Similar looking carbon fibre Octo Finissmos exist, but one is a minute repeater and the other, which debuted earlier this year, is an automatic tourbillon. The ceramic three-hand ($21,900) isn’t exactly revolutionary given its predecessors but if you’re looking to get your hands on this design without shelling out six figures for a tourbillon or minute repeater, it’s a very welcome new addition.

Grand Seiko Snowflake

Grand Seiko
Courtesy of Grand Seiko

This baby was one of the most talked about watches of Baselworld. And in case any watch newcomers are wondering what’s so great about Seiko (and we know there are some of you still out there)—welcome to the world of Grand Seiko. This is an entirely different wing of the brand, separate from the one that’s known for having launched the quartz crisis. Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko is known for its high-end timepieces created in two exclusive watch studios in Japan using unique movements and finishing techniques that are quite unlike anything coming out of Switzerland. It is therefore under the radar to the general public, but for many collectors, its understated elegance and commitment to perfectionism and precision, so inherent to Japanese culture, makes it a seriously coveted brand.

This year they outdid themselves with a snowflake dial, accented with 14-karat white gold markers and hands, inspired by the Shinshu region, home to Grand Seiko. The finish on the dial seems to melt or blend into the case which has been hand carved, in platinum 950 no less, to replicate the pattern on the dial. Flip it over and you will find the Calibre 9R02. The first thing you will notice is the barrel whose shape mimics the local bellflower, a symbol of Shiojiri where the Micro Artist Studio is located. The words “Micro Artist” are engraved on an 18-karat gold plaque set on the lower bridge, which can also be replaced with the client’s name. The 9R02, however, is notable in that it’s a new movement that improves upon its famous Spring Drive movement, first launched in 1999 and lauded for its accuracy, with two mainsprings set in parallel within a single barrel. It employs a Torque Return System that uses a percentage of energy from the torque of the watch when it is fully wound to rewind the mainspring thereby increasing the power reserve to 84 hours.

It’s an exceptional 38.55 x 9.8mm timepiece and with just 30 pieces worldwide at approximately $106,900 a piece, it will take an exceptional collector to buy one.

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Best of Europe: Grand Hotel Des Étrangers

Fall for a Baroque beauty in Syracuse, Italy.

By Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Sicily has seen a White Lotus–fuelled surge in bookings for this summer—a pop-culture fillip to fill up its grandes dames hotels. Skip the gawping crowds at the headline-grabbers, though, and opt instead for an insider-ish alternative: the Grand Hotel des Étrangers, which reopened last summer after a gut renovation.

It sits on the seafront on the tiny island of Ortigia in Syracuse, all cobbled streets and grand buildings, like a Baroque time capsule on Sicily’s southeastern coast. 

Survey the entire streetscape here from the all-day rooftop bar-restaurant, Clou, where the fusion menu is a shorthand of Sicily’s pan-Mediterranean history; try the spaghetti with bottarga and wild fennel or the sea bass crusted in anchovies. Idle on the terrace alfresco with a snifter of avola, the rum made nearby. 

Image: Benedetto Tarantino

As for the rooms, they’ve been renovated with Art Deco–inflected interiors—think plenty of parquet and marble—but the main asset is their aspect: the best of them have private balconies and a palm tree-fringed view out over the Ionian Sea. Doubles from around $665; desetranger.com

 

 

 

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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