These watches set fire to SIHH 2019

Robb Report finds envelope-nudging, artisanal flair and ‘firsts’ in abundance at SIHH 2019 in Geneva.

By Nick Scott 04/03/2019

Fabienne Lupo, who runs the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) – Geneva’s annual watch fair that started out, in 1991, as luxury group Richemont’s riposte to Baselworld – says that the annual event’s aim is “to become a kind of Davos of watchmaking”. It’s an audacious mission statement, given that the World Economic Forum literally sets out to make the world a better place: but the 29th SIHH event, which took place in January, showcased the extent to which watchmakers are rising to the challenge, when it comes to enriching the horological ecosphere.

As usual, many of the innovative masterstrokes found within the branded grottos at the Palexpo exhibition centre were mechanical in nature. Baume & Mercier wowed even the most finicky of horological engineering geeks present – and they weren’t short in number – by adding a perpetual calendar to the arsenal of complications (silicon hairspring, high-performance escapement, five-day power reserve) introduced last year to the new Baumatic range ($34,800). Also worth a look are the eight new Classima Lady Steel watches with new dial sizes and automatic quartz movements, the version with Classima mother-of-pearl quartz and a diamond-set bezel being the stand-out ($6200).


Richard Mille Marshmallow Series
Courtesy Richard Mille

Another impressive mechanical ‘first’ came from Jaeger-LeCoultre, whose Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel ($1.274 million) features a minute repeater that eschews the traditional two-note ding in favour of the familiar four-note refrain sounded by Big Ben. Girard-Perregaux’s new 48mm bead-blasted titanium piece, the Bridges Cosmos (POA), offers a 60-hour power reserve thanks to an impressive new calibre that lies within, while A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk Date – a 10th-anniversary celebration piece – features a glass ring date, with printed numerals from 1 to 31, which circumferences the dial and nudges a notch further around it each midnight (around $141,700).

There was also plenty of inventive zeal with unconventional materials: sat atop Piaget’s Altiplano’s ultra-thin calibre is a meteorite dial – blue in the 41mm pink gold Tourbillon version ($188,000), grey in the 40mm pink gold version (from $41,600) – while RJ Watches’ ARRAW 6919, complementing a patented mechanism that displays a 3D moon rotating 360°, features materials scraped from the lunar surface (POA). And, moving from ultra-rare materials to problematically ubiquitous ones, Panerai presented its Mike Horn Edition Submersible, an edition limited to 19 pieces, each with a strap made from three recycled plastic bottles (around $32,000, or $64,000 for a special edition that includes training with Horn in the Arctic).

Two brands, in particular, showcased some serious R&D vigour with crystals: one being Audemars Piguet, whose new range, entitled Code 11.59, as well as three new in-house movements including an integrated column wheel chronograph with flyback function, features a sapphire crystal that is domed internally but vertically curved between 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock (POA). Take our word for it – it does far more for depth, perspective and legibility than it sounds like it should. Bovet also nudged the known crystal envelope, its Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter One piece being entirely cased in sapphire crystal ($414,500).

Watches that wear their heart on their sleeve – we refer to ‘skeletonised’ or ‘openworked’ pieces – seem ever more abundant at both the annual fairs. Audemars Piguet’s aforementioned Code 11.59 collection features, among its 13 iterations, a Skeleton Tourbillon; Ulysse Nardin’s Skeleton X, meanwhile, takes a sporty, hyper-modern approach to the form (including a version in Carbonium®Gold, a material usually used in the aerospace sector; $31,050).


SANTOS DE CARTIER SKELETON WATCH
Courtesy Cartier

Perhaps the most surprising addition to the skeleton canon unveiled here, though, was a model being added, along with a chronograph, to Cartier’s Santos range, which enjoyed a successful re-launch last year. The slightly Batman-esque, all-black Noctambule model features Super-Luminova on its movement bridges, numbers and minute and hour hands ($37,500). The Révélation d’Une Panthère in white gold with diamonds ($385,000) – whose dial features a panther’s face made up of gold beads, which disperse to the bottom of the dial with a tilt of the wrist – was another stand-out when it came to the French house’s new offerings.

The many SIHH attendees with a strong penchant for dial decoration weren’t left disappointed – the delicate slate guilloche on Parmigiani’s Toric Chronomètre ($37,800) and Greubel Forsey’s lavishly micro-engraved Art Piece Edition Historique ($872,000) were stand-outs – but other brands showed a tendency towards zanier methods. That includes Richard Mille, whose nectarous new collection is made up of 10 models that articulate their creator’s affection for sweets, cupcakes, pastries and fruits (they were designed by ladies’ collection director Cécile Guenat, who is Mille’s business partner and friend Dominique Guenat’s daughter). While most of the collection, which features 3000 miniature sculptures, adheres to the brand’s familiar multi-layered, miniature toy-theatre look, the standout piece here – the RM 07-03 Automatic Marshmallow – is fronted by a gently ridged panel of elegant, pink and white, hand-enamelled swirls ($230,500).Panerai’s new 47mm Submersible Chrono Guillaume Néry Edition features a dial textured in grey to resemble a shark’s skin (around $30,400). (The special edition, $62,000, comes with a unique experience with Guillaume Néry, after whom the watch is named, in the ocean depths of French Polynesia).


Gruebel Forsey Art Piece Edition Historique
Courtesy Gruebel Forsey

Ulysse Nardin, meanwhile, has teamed up with Italian erotic comic book illustrator Milo Manara to create its new Classico Erotic series: 10 different pieces, depicting different stages of a Sapphic fling between a young woman and a mermaid (from $63,293). The watch-buying world’s penchant for blue dials, climbing to the crest of the zeitgeist for a few years, continues unabated: the ultra-thin Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar in white gold ($1.24 million) being a fine example of ultra-modern classicism, and Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 featuring several iterations with rich azure frontages visible through that crystal sapphire trickery.

No watch fair is complete without an horological-automotive collaboration, thanks to predecessors such as Ball For BMW, the Pamigiani Fleurier Bugatti Atalante Flyback Chronograph and – of course – the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona. Here, the openworked nature of the Excalibur One-Off by Roger Dubuis, produced in partnership with both Lamborghini and Pirelli (around $1.492 million), exposes marvels such as its flying tourbillon, modelled on the V-shaped engine block of a Lamborghini. (This one-off edition was sold immediately after launch.) The pick of the military heritage bunch – alongside all of Panerai’s output, by virtue of its brand-defining history as a supplier to the Italian Navy – was IWC Schaffhausen’s Spitfire Collection (from $6700 to $42,600), a tie-in with the house’s sponsorship of the forthcoming Silver Spitfire/The Longest Flight project.


Parmigiani Toric Chronometre Slate Guilloche
Courtesy Parmigiani

This mission will see two British aviation enthusiasts, Matt Jones and Steve Brooks, circumnavigate the planet, covering 43,500 kilometres over four months, in a silver Spitfire Mark IX. Also drawing on adventure as a theme was Montblanc, whose additions to the 1858 Collection with bronze cases, khaki dials and NATO straps are engraved with a ‘Spirit of Mountain Exploration’ design (around $4600 to $9300). The Richemont show it may well be, but since 2016, SIHH has been drawing an increasing number of smaller, artisanal brands to its special Carré des Horlogers zone within. And, among these tirelessly innovative independents, RJ was not the only one with a zest for experimentation.

F.P. Journe’s audacious Tourbillon Souverain Vertical (around $343,500 in red gold and around $349,000 in platinum), according to the company’s eponymous founder François-Paul Journe, actually improves on an invention that has been at the apex of horological precision for over 200 years. “I designed this vertical tourbillon so that its functions remain constant whether the watch lies flat or is placed on its side,” he says. Elsewhere in the Carré des Horlogers area, Christophe Claret presented its new Angelico: another tourbillon, this one inspired by 18th century marine chronometers, with a long detent escapement and cable-type fusee (around $334,500 in red gold, around $306,300 in titanium); MB&F launched a steel version of its sci-fi-ish HM6 (around $295,000), which has sapphire crystal domes in each of the four corners of its biomorphic case; Armin Strom ushered a sapphire version of its Dual Time Resonance – another watch with a fully exposed movement – into its repertoire (around $393,000); equally eye-catching was DeWitt’s Academia Hour Planet watch (POA), which has a beautifully textured globe embedded in its dial.


Speake Marin One&Two
Courtesy Speak Marin

Next door, Speake Marin’s One&Two collection offered up yet another openworked marvel: a travel watch combining a dual time indication and a retrograde date (around $23,000 in titanium; around $41,500 in red gold); small Belgian manufacture Ressence introduced its Type 1 Slim (around $23,595) – an exercise in pared- down futurism – while HYT possibly picked up the gong for the most outlandish revelation in its H20 Time is Fluid model, another exercise in hydraulic horology (around $161,500 in steel, around $175,000 in gold).

The Swiss Alp Watch Concept Black from H Moser & Cie – the brand that, two years ago, convinced the world to take a watch case made from Swiss cheese seriously – resembles an Apple smartwatch but, lacking any kind of time-based display, communicates the time aurally ($553,800). Ferdinand Berthoud presented the 2019 ‘Oeuvre d’Or’ iterations of its FB 1 Chronometer in white gold and diamonds (around $396,750) and rose gold (around $362,300).

Hautlence unveiled its HL Vagabonde Tourbillon ($37,800), whose bizarre-but-grows-on-you aesthetic was made up of a central disc, three satellites and a one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, all overlapping, within a 18kt red gold lozenge case. Surely the most eye-catching mechanical conceit on display, though, belonged to avant-garde engineering mavens Urwerk.


Uwerk AMC
Courtesy Uwerk

The company’s ambitious flagship project, AMC (see Robb Report July-August 2018), marries two devices: the Atomolith, a 35-kilogram atomic clock within an aluminium case, and a mechanical watch that, when docked, is chronometrically aligned to the mothership ($3.9 million).Disruptive boutique brands notwithstanding, SIHH is predominantly a showcase for Richemont’s brands – but that doesn’t stop others getting in on the act, running their own mini watch fairs out of Geneva’s more upmarket hotel suites.

Thus did attendees who ventured away from the Palexpo get to take in models like the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph.

Being piggy-backed like this is, of course, a compliment to organisers of a premium horological event that’s likely to become stronger and more relevant with the announcement that SIHH and Baselworld will begin coordinating dates so that they coincide from 2020. Given the creative zeal showcased here – the houses’ tireless capacity for rejuvenation and reinvention – it’d take a curmudgeon not to hope that the move provides the industry as a whole with a shot in the arm.

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Minerality in Wine, Explained: How It Affects Taste, Aroma and Texture

And an exploration of the regions that produce great mineral-driven varietals.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 07/05/2024

If you have taken part in a wine tasting, read an article about wine, or even glanced at the back label of a bottle of wine, you have likely encountered the word minerality. But defining what that means exactly is where the problems can start—even wine experts disagree on what it is and how it expresses itself in the glass.

Minerality refers to a flavour profile and often a palpable sensation in the mouth. The flavours generally involve rocks or fossils, such as stone, river rock, flint, gravel, slate, asphalt and oyster shell. There is also a sense of salinity, often derived from volcanic soils, that is a component of mineral-driven wines. This is different from other earthy flavours such as forest floor or peat. When we host tastings, very few people will own up to having licked rocks as a child, but almost everyone has gotten a stray bit of oyster or clam shell in their mouth and can recall the taste and texture. Most of us can remember the scent of a chalkboard or pencil lead from our childhood, and even those who have never fired a gun are familiar with flint or gunpowder from firecrackers.

When minerality is discussed, it is often a quality ascribed to white wine such as Riesling, Assyrtiko, Sauvignon Blanc or Burgundian Chardonnay. We may not hear about minerality in red wine so much because the oak used for maturation may mask the flavours and aromas associated with minerality. However, two reds sometimes described as having mineral qualities are those from the volcanic soils of Mount Etna in Sicily and the shale and quartz vineyards of Priorat in Spain. A prime example of the mineral-driven style is Chablis in the northernmost reaches of Burgundy, whose wines are made with 100 percent Chardonnay. The wines have a distinctly different character than the oaky, buttery style prevalent in Napa Valley and further south in Burgundy.

Walking through the vineyards of Chablis you can see abundant fossilised oyster shells that date back 150 million years to the Upper Jurassic period, when this area was at the bottom of the sea. Dig a bit; you will find calcified ammonites and spiral-shaped cephalopods from the same era. While vineyard soil is a discussion for another day, the grey limestone here is called Kimmeridgian, named for the village of Kimmeridge in Dorset, England, where it was first identified. As Thierry Bellicaud, president of Domaine Laroche in Chablis told Robb Report, “The Kimmeridgian limestone soil, which is unique to this area, delivers all needed nutrients for the balance of the vines. The terroir nurtures the vines which then express its personality in the grapes.”

Fossils from ancient seabeds contribute to the flavour of the wine.
DOMAINE LAROCHE, CHABLIS, FRANCE

Asked how soil composition influences one of Domaine Laroche’s wines, Bellicaud referenced its Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots, “Les Blanchots is a unique terroir made of a layer of white clay on Kimmeridgian limestone with ammonites. This is the ideal combination to keep the right amount of water for the roots. The southeast exposure allows slow ripening and favours aroma development. It is one of the areas in the appellation where you can easily find oyster fossils (called Exogyra virgula). The Grand Cru Les Blanchots is delicate, refined and silky in texture.”

Assyrtiko from Santorini is almost always described as possessing a mineral quality as well as a touch of salinity, which can be attributed to the black volcanic soil in which it grows as well as to the Aegean Seaspray that wafts over the island’s vineyards. Mosel Valley Riesling’s leanness and flinty character come from the red and blue limestone in which it is cultivated.

Italy’s Soave region is also known for the minerality of its wine. Alessio Inama, third-generation family leader and director of sales, marketing and communication at Inama Azienda Agricola, told Robb Report, “Soave Classico is a volcanic region with soil made up of basaltic rocks, volcanic tuffs and ashes that date back 30 million years. The soils offer minerals in their natural form, which impact the composition of the plants themselves. In the case of grape vines, the soils have a major influence on the resulting flavours of the wines, which are mineral and floral.”

Known for their scrupulous mapping of micro-plots within their vineyards, the Inamas produce several different Soave wines made with the Garganega grape. Inama I Palchi Foscarino Grande Cuvée Soave DOC is crafted from the family’s best plots on Monte Foscarino. Inama explained, “The soil of Foscarino is a mix of pure magma, ashes and basaltic rocks that deteriorated over millions of years into a dark clay that is extremely rich in minerals. The grapes from those 40-year-old vines have strong personality, great intensity and texture, delivering a complex bouquet of white flowers, citrus notes and flinty sensations.”

The Priorat wine region in Spain is known for its minerality.
SCALA DEI, PRIORAT, SPAIN

While the sensation of minerality can be less obvious in red wines, Spanish Garnacha and Sicilian Nerello Mascalese are two grapes that often exhibit it, thanks to both the locales from which they hail as well as the often-judicious use of oak. The slopes of eastern Sicily’s Mount Etna are covered with volcanic soils composed of pumice, black ash and basalt. Priorat, a region close to Barcelona in northeast Spain, is blessed with black quartz, slate and mica soils called llicorella. Here you will find vineyards covered with small fragments of black and grey striated rock sitting atop blue and red soils embedded with the same.

Ricard Rofes, winemaker at Scala Dei in Priorat, refers to its Mas Deu vineyard as one of the winery’s “jewels.” The origin of Scala Dei Tribut and Masdeu, it sits 800 meters (2,625 feet) above sea level. Rofes told Robb Report, “In this elevated area the clay and limestone soils are ideal for growing Grenache, giving the wine that touch of acidity and freshness that makes it unique. The red-clay soils and the altitude of the vineyards located in the lap of the Sierra de Montsant give it freshness and the llicorella soils impart a genuine imprint. Our wine is the pure expression of the fruit and the terroir with a distinct personality.”

 

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Best fo Europe: Six Senses, Switzerland 

Mend in the mountains at Crans-Montana.

By The Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Wellness pioneer Six Senses made a name for itself with tranquil, mostly tropical destinations. Now, its first alpine hotel recreates that signature mix of sustainable luxury and innovative spa therapeutics in a world-class ski setting. 

The ski-in, ski-out location above the gondola of one of Switzerland’s largest winter sports resorts allows guests to schuss from the top of the Plaine Morte glacier to the hotel’s piste-side lounge, where they can swap ski gear for slippers, then head straight to the spa’s bio-hack recovery area to recharge with compression boots, binaural beats and an herb-spiked mocktail. In summer, the region is a golf and hiking hub. 

The vibe offers a contemporary take on chalet style. The 78 rooms and suites are decorated in local larch and oak, and all have terraces or balconies with alpine views over the likes of the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. With four different saunas, a sensory flotation pod, two pools
and a whimsical relaxation area complete with 15,000 hanging “icicles” and views of a birch forest, the spa at Six Senses Crans-Montana makes après ski an afterthought.

You can even sidestep the cheese-heavy cuisine of this region in favour of hot pots and sushi at the property’s Japanese restaurant, Byakko. Doubles from around $1,205; Sixsenses.com

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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Best of Europe: Grand Hotel Des Étrangers

Fall for a Baroque beauty in Syracuse, Italy.

By Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Sicily has seen a White Lotus–fuelled surge in bookings for this summer—a pop-culture fillip to fill up its grandes dames hotels. Skip the gawping crowds at the headline-grabbers, though, and opt instead for an insider-ish alternative: the Grand Hotel des Étrangers, which reopened last summer after a gut renovation.

It sits on the seafront on the tiny island of Ortigia in Syracuse, all cobbled streets and grand buildings, like a Baroque time capsule on Sicily’s southeastern coast. 

Survey the entire streetscape here from the all-day rooftop bar-restaurant, Clou, where the fusion menu is a shorthand of Sicily’s pan-Mediterranean history; try the spaghetti with bottarga and wild fennel or the sea bass crusted in anchovies. Idle on the terrace alfresco with a snifter of avola, the rum made nearby. 

Image: Benedetto Tarantino

As for the rooms, they’ve been renovated with Art Deco–inflected interiors—think plenty of parquet and marble—but the main asset is their aspect: the best of them have private balconies and a palm tree-fringed view out over the Ionian Sea. Doubles from around $665; desetranger.com

 

 

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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