This Australian red is a gre-national treasure

Grenache is throwing off its backing singer past to take centre stage.

By Chris Morrison 12/02/2019

In an era awash with wines and winemakers chasing zeitgeist around the tasting room, a single grape variety that excels in a handful of wine regions is slowly and silently reclaiming its place at the coalface of the Australian wine industry. Grenache is Australia’s fallen wine hero which, thanks to a group of committed winemakers and grape growers, is finally going to enjoy its time in the sun once again.

To try and describe it briefly, grenache is essentially like warm-climate pinot noir, with a few more strings to its bow. Not only can it make detailed, site-specific wine, stylistically it has a lot of elbow room and a huge bandwidth of mouthfeel, texture and taste. Grenache suits warm climates where it makes wines that range from light in colour, highly aromatic and full of fresh red and blue fruits, to rich, supple, mouth-filling wines of real depth and flavour. With all this going for it, you may wonder why grenache has largely been forgotten by the wine-drinking public for so long?

To understand grenache’s time in purgatory, you need to go back nearly 100 years. This was a time in Australian wine where seven out of every 10 bottles drunk by Australians were fortified. Grapes were workhorses prized for their ability to deliver powerful flavours and high sugar, and grenache’s ability to deliver consistently high volumes against this remit meant it did a great deal of the heavy lifting for fortified wine production in Australia.However, as dry wine and the popularity of the wine cask began to take over in the 1980s, the white grapes needed to fuel its growth – along with the rise in popularity of shiraz and cabernet sauvignon – caused a red grape surplus to develop in South Australia. Indeed, in 1987 the South Australian Government instigated a sponsored “vine pull” that would compensate growers who were willing to uproot old vine stock and repurpose their vineyards for new, more in-demand grape varieties. Grenache vines were torn from the soils that had been their homes for a century or more, and left in piles to be burnt and forgotten. Grenache was discarded and consigned to be a back-up singer to shiraz, or cannon-fodder for the shrinking fortified wine market.

The one wine that has kept grenache relevant in the eyes of the everyday wine drinker was the ‘GSM’ or ‘Rhone Blend’. It became a sensation in the 1990s, a mid-weight red that took the best parts of grenache, shiraz and mouvedre and smooshed them into a consistent, easy-drinking wine style. However, profiling grenache in trade and public tastings back then meant talking down its personality as a single variety and ramping up its ability to deliver perfume, flavour and alcohol, and focusing on how these characteristics seamlessly blended with the power of shiraz and the rustic tannins of mouvedre.

Today, the same characteristics that were once used to add nuance to warm-climate red blends are now starting to stand alone. Light, bright, perky wines crackling with savoury taste profiles, acidity and flexible tannins have shown that grenache can have a contemporary image.Ground zero for grenache in Australia is the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. This is where, thankfully, many growers and makers and their fathers and mothers before them rejected the idea of destroying their old grenache vines and decided to keep them in the ground.

Now these vines are regarded as a natural wonder of the world’s wine industry; a living, breathing monument to Australian viticulture. Weaving in and out of this regional vine history is a progressive approach to winemaking that is delivering some of the country’s most exciting, value-driven and food-friendly wines available today.

ADVERTISE WITH US

Subscribe to the Newsletter

Stay Connected

You may also like.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘Reverso Stories’ Has Returned for 2024

The special Reverso exhibit will be arriving in Sydney this week.

By Josh Bozin 08/05/2024

In 2024, there’s very few who wouldn’t know of Jaeger-LeCoultre and its enduring Reverso collection. Since 1931, the Reverso has served as the finest example of meticulous watchmaking from the Vallée du Joux; a collection revered for its legacy of tradition, and celebrated as one of the the seminal dress watches of the 20th century.

In recent years, the Reverso catalogue has only gone from strength to strength—in 2023 alone, we received the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph, the impressive Duoface Tourbillon, and the slimmer Reverso Tribute Small Seconds—capturing the imagination of watch admirers, collectors, and those looking to scale the horological ladder.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Today, the inimitable Reverso is omnipresent, thanks to successful new releases and exceptional branding experiences, such as ‘Reverso Stories’. Jaeger-LeCoultre is summoning its travelling Reverso trunk show to Australia once again, this time with a new base in the heart of Sydney’s CBD. For a limited time only, eager fans can get a glimpse of the Reverso collection up close and personal thanks to a multi-sensory exhibition retracing the history of this remarkable timepiece.

A story presented in four chapters—Icon, Style & Design, Innovation, and Craftsmanship—the iconic Reverso will be told through the lens of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expert watchmakers who present nine decades of craftsmanship, inventiveness and design into one interactive experience.

As an added bonus, guests will be privy to a large-scale art installation by Korean artist Yiyun Kang—commissioned by the Maison under its ‘Made of Makers’ programme—as well as the launch of three exceptional new Reverso timepieces, yet to be revealed. These timepieces, chosen by the Maison to be launched in Sydney, will showcase the skills involved in creating a Reverso, such as enamelling, gold-leaf paillonage, and gem-setting, mastered by the Manufacture’s in-house Métiers Rares (Rare Handcrafts) atelier.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

‘Reverso Stories’, an exhibit first created in 2021 for the 90th anniversary of the iconic timepiece, will take visitors on a compelling journey to discover its unique history, illustrated by a collection of archival Reverso models and modern-day highlights that any watch fan will appreciate. Completing the immersion into the spirit of Art Deco, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 1931 Café will invite guests to enjoy a complementary refreshment post-experience.

The ‘Reverso Stories’ experience will be held in Sydney’s Martin Place from 10–19 May 2024, opening daily from 9am to 7pm (and 5 pm on Sundays), with free access to the public. Visitors are welcome to book online here, or register upon arrival.

For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Minerality in Wine, Explained: How It Affects Taste, Aroma and Texture

And an exploration of the regions that produce great mineral-driven varietals.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 07/05/2024

If you have taken part in a wine tasting, read an article about wine, or even glanced at the back label of a bottle of wine, you have likely encountered the word minerality. But defining what that means exactly is where the problems can start—even wine experts disagree on what it is and how it expresses itself in the glass.

Minerality refers to a flavour profile and often a palpable sensation in the mouth. The flavours generally involve rocks or fossils, such as stone, river rock, flint, gravel, slate, asphalt and oyster shell. There is also a sense of salinity, often derived from volcanic soils, that is a component of mineral-driven wines. This is different from other earthy flavours such as forest floor or peat. When we host tastings, very few people will own up to having licked rocks as a child, but almost everyone has gotten a stray bit of oyster or clam shell in their mouth and can recall the taste and texture. Most of us can remember the scent of a chalkboard or pencil lead from our childhood, and even those who have never fired a gun are familiar with flint or gunpowder from firecrackers.

When minerality is discussed, it is often a quality ascribed to white wine such as Riesling, Assyrtiko, Sauvignon Blanc or Burgundian Chardonnay. We may not hear about minerality in red wine so much because the oak used for maturation may mask the flavours and aromas associated with minerality. However, two reds sometimes described as having mineral qualities are those from the volcanic soils of Mount Etna in Sicily and the shale and quartz vineyards of Priorat in Spain. A prime example of the mineral-driven style is Chablis in the northernmost reaches of Burgundy, whose wines are made with 100 percent Chardonnay. The wines have a distinctly different character than the oaky, buttery style prevalent in Napa Valley and further south in Burgundy.

Walking through the vineyards of Chablis you can see abundant fossilised oyster shells that date back 150 million years to the Upper Jurassic period, when this area was at the bottom of the sea. Dig a bit; you will find calcified ammonites and spiral-shaped cephalopods from the same era. While vineyard soil is a discussion for another day, the grey limestone here is called Kimmeridgian, named for the village of Kimmeridge in Dorset, England, where it was first identified. As Thierry Bellicaud, president of Domaine Laroche in Chablis told Robb Report, “The Kimmeridgian limestone soil, which is unique to this area, delivers all needed nutrients for the balance of the vines. The terroir nurtures the vines which then express its personality in the grapes.”

Fossils from ancient seabeds contribute to the flavour of the wine.
DOMAINE LAROCHE, CHABLIS, FRANCE

Asked how soil composition influences one of Domaine Laroche’s wines, Bellicaud referenced its Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots, “Les Blanchots is a unique terroir made of a layer of white clay on Kimmeridgian limestone with ammonites. This is the ideal combination to keep the right amount of water for the roots. The southeast exposure allows slow ripening and favours aroma development. It is one of the areas in the appellation where you can easily find oyster fossils (called Exogyra virgula). The Grand Cru Les Blanchots is delicate, refined and silky in texture.”

Assyrtiko from Santorini is almost always described as possessing a mineral quality as well as a touch of salinity, which can be attributed to the black volcanic soil in which it grows as well as to the Aegean Seaspray that wafts over the island’s vineyards. Mosel Valley Riesling’s leanness and flinty character come from the red and blue limestone in which it is cultivated.

Italy’s Soave region is also known for the minerality of its wine. Alessio Inama, third-generation family leader and director of sales, marketing and communication at Inama Azienda Agricola, told Robb Report, “Soave Classico is a volcanic region with soil made up of basaltic rocks, volcanic tuffs and ashes that date back 30 million years. The soils offer minerals in their natural form, which impact the composition of the plants themselves. In the case of grape vines, the soils have a major influence on the resulting flavours of the wines, which are mineral and floral.”

Known for their scrupulous mapping of micro-plots within their vineyards, the Inamas produce several different Soave wines made with the Garganega grape. Inama I Palchi Foscarino Grande Cuvée Soave DOC is crafted from the family’s best plots on Monte Foscarino. Inama explained, “The soil of Foscarino is a mix of pure magma, ashes and basaltic rocks that deteriorated over millions of years into a dark clay that is extremely rich in minerals. The grapes from those 40-year-old vines have strong personality, great intensity and texture, delivering a complex bouquet of white flowers, citrus notes and flinty sensations.”

The Priorat wine region in Spain is known for its minerality.
SCALA DEI, PRIORAT, SPAIN

While the sensation of minerality can be less obvious in red wines, Spanish Garnacha and Sicilian Nerello Mascalese are two grapes that often exhibit it, thanks to both the locales from which they hail as well as the often-judicious use of oak. The slopes of eastern Sicily’s Mount Etna are covered with volcanic soils composed of pumice, black ash and basalt. Priorat, a region close to Barcelona in northeast Spain, is blessed with black quartz, slate and mica soils called llicorella. Here you will find vineyards covered with small fragments of black and grey striated rock sitting atop blue and red soils embedded with the same.

Ricard Rofes, winemaker at Scala Dei in Priorat, refers to its Mas Deu vineyard as one of the winery’s “jewels.” The origin of Scala Dei Tribut and Masdeu, it sits 800 meters (2,625 feet) above sea level. Rofes told Robb Report, “In this elevated area the clay and limestone soils are ideal for growing Grenache, giving the wine that touch of acidity and freshness that makes it unique. The red-clay soils and the altitude of the vineyards located in the lap of the Sierra de Montsant give it freshness and the llicorella soils impart a genuine imprint. Our wine is the pure expression of the fruit and the terroir with a distinct personality.”

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Best of Europe: Six Senses, Switzerland 

Mend in the mountains at Crans-Montana.

By The Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Wellness pioneer Six Senses made a name for itself with tranquil, mostly tropical destinations. Now, its first alpine hotel recreates that signature mix of sustainable luxury and innovative spa therapeutics in a world-class ski setting. 

The ski-in, ski-out location above the gondola of one of Switzerland’s largest winter sports resorts allows guests to schuss from the top of the Plaine Morte glacier to the hotel’s piste-side lounge, where they can swap ski gear for slippers, then head straight to the spa’s bio-hack recovery area to recharge with compression boots, binaural beats and an herb-spiked mocktail. In summer, the region is a golf and hiking hub. 

The vibe offers a contemporary take on chalet style. The 78 rooms and suites are decorated in local larch and oak, and all have terraces or balconies with alpine views over the likes of the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. With four different saunas, a sensory flotation pod, two pools
and a whimsical relaxation area complete with 15,000 hanging “icicles” and views of a birch forest, the spa at Six Senses Crans-Montana makes après ski an afterthought.

You can even sidestep the cheese-heavy cuisine of this region in favour of hot pots and sushi at the property’s Japanese restaurant, Byakko. Doubles from around $1,205; Sixsenses.com

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Best of Europe: Grand Hotel Des Étrangers

Fall for a Baroque beauty in Syracuse, Italy.

By Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Sicily has seen a White Lotus–fuelled surge in bookings for this summer—a pop-culture fillip to fill up its grandes dames hotels. Skip the gawping crowds at the headline-grabbers, though, and opt instead for an insider-ish alternative: the Grand Hotel des Étrangers, which reopened last summer after a gut renovation.

It sits on the seafront on the tiny island of Ortigia in Syracuse, all cobbled streets and grand buildings, like a Baroque time capsule on Sicily’s southeastern coast. 

Survey the entire streetscape here from the all-day rooftop bar-restaurant, Clou, where the fusion menu is a shorthand of Sicily’s pan-Mediterranean history; try the spaghetti with bottarga and wild fennel or the sea bass crusted in anchovies. Idle on the terrace alfresco with a snifter of avola, the rum made nearby. 

Image: Benedetto Tarantino

As for the rooms, they’ve been renovated with Art Deco–inflected interiors—think plenty of parquet and marble—but the main asset is their aspect: the best of them have private balconies and a palm tree-fringed view out over the Ionian Sea. Doubles from around $665; desetranger.com

 

 

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected