Shear Magic: wool’s journey from Australia to Italy

How a bale of Australian greasy wool weaves its way into some of the world’s most luxurious suits.

By Nicholas Atgemis 06/01/2019

The drive from Milan to the province of Biella was a fast one, rarely dipping below 160km/h and in the bandwidth of speed that, at home in Australia, means instant loss of one’s driving licence for a year. Sensing my unease, Giovanni slowed down.

I hadn’t come to this part of northwestern Italy to follow in the footsteps of Australian F1 driver Daniel Ricciardo, but to follow the journey of an Australian bale of wool. Biella is a part of the story of so much of what most of us will only ever see as a ‘greasy’ fleece (the term for unprocessed wool) laid out on a classing table, or as a finished suit.

Everything that happens in between is almost a mystery. Why don’t we process wool in Australia? What exactly is it that the Italians do? And why is Italy still at the top of the game?

There are few better people to ask than my driver, Giovanni. At the turn of the the 20th century, Giovanni Schneider’s great-grandfather built textile weaving machines for the Marzotto textile business in northeastern Italy. After the Great War, his son, Giovanni II, secured funding from local textile families and emigrated to Australia, promising to source and export greasy wool on their behalf.

Thus began the GSchneider Group which, in 1950, began to move vertically from mere wool trading to producing wool tops (fibres processed into uniform strands) here in Biella. In the ’90s the Biella plant ventured further into processing, as Italian rivals retreated from the rise of China. The factory is one of only three facilities in Europe that can take a bale of greasy wool and take it through the process of washing, scouring, blending, ‘carding’ (aligning the fibres and removing clumps) and combing. What emerges are slivers of wool that become rope-like wool tops, ready to be delivered to be dyed before being spun into thread.

An interesting (and patriotic) point in the process is that, during the initial washing, lanolin is extracted from Australian Merino. It is on-sold to the cosmetics industry, bringing an additional revenue stream to the Biella plant.

Today, about three-quarters of the world’s wool goes to lower-cost producers in China. Biella’s two remaining plants focus on higher-grade fibres destined for weaving into suit cloths and luxury knits. In fact, familiar luxury names like Brunello Cucinelli, Marzotto, Zegna and Loro Piana all have shares in this facility. Their local competitor is a partnership between Reda and Vitale Barberis Canonico.

Vitale Barberis Canonico cites a history back to 1663, though some have scoffed at this. There’s a great deal of snobbery in these parts, where lineage and prestige matter. Meanwhile, Giovanni Schneider IV was on the mobile phone, orchestrating for me to be picked up by the side of the road to be driven to Trivero, in the Biellese Alps, where he had arranged for me to tour the VBC plant.

Another rapid trip ensued in the hands of a different driver, Silvio. The landscape on the winding ascent was more Switzerland than Italy; there was something unusual about the buildings that I couldn’t put my finger on.

Vitale Barberis Canonico begins dyeing wool tops in large bullet-shaped chambers. Robots place the wool tops into vats that heat them to 70 ̊C; the temperature varies over a three-hour cycle to ensure the dye penetrates. After drying, the wool tops are sent to the spinners who prepare the fibres and twist and turn them into threads.

This is quite an art form – akin to blending grape varieties – as the fibres are mixed between varieties (think Merino, cotton, mohair, cashmere, silk and linen) and colour.

The Vitale Barberis Canonico facility occupies multiple buildings and employs machines, robots and people to produce more than 10 million metres of wool fabric every year.

Between the washing of the wool and the finishing treatments, the process consumes water at the rate of 60 litres per finished metre of fabric. Vitale Barberis Canonico today has a large and extensive water treatment centre adjacent to the plant, but it’s this need for water that largely explains why Biella became the hub of wool textile processing. The water that melts from the Italian Alps is ‘soft’, or low in minerals, and there’s plenty of it.

The plant is very secretive about the names on its machines and the weaving processes they use. Biella province was once home to around 500,000 people; it’s today closer to 200,000. Over the past 20 years, many in the industry have shut up shop or moved offshore, while the two that have remained have had to invest in automation. While they pride themselves on inspecting every metre of cloth at every stage with their own eyes, in time those eyes may be digital.

I was introduced to Michele Papouzzo, head of the cloth design team. Despite the relatively remote location, Michele was impeccably dressed in navy melange pants, belt, white shirt and a double four-in-hand knotted tie on a sky-blue garza weave. This is Italy, of course.

I learned that I had many misconceptions about weaving looms. The types of designs that can be woven in wool are much less complex than those possible with a jacquard loom for silk. More importantly, most of those 10 million metres of wool are done in simple dark blues and greys, varying in weaves and weights. The market for more vibrant wools is minimal.

I was also fortunate to meet Francesco Barberis Canonico, creative director of VBC and, as such, the man behind the very fabric of so many suits from famous designers, including Armani, Versace, Prada, Gucci and Ralph Lauren.

Collected again by Giovanni Schneider, we ascended the mountain farther, stopping by his maternal great-grandfather’s house: Casa Zegna. Ermenegildo Zegna is understandably legendary in these parts, a fastidious man who built not only a business, but a town and a proud culture around textiles and tailoring. His house, mostly boarded up, is maintained by a family foundation. A small walkway still joins the house to the weaving and making factory, operating today much as it always has.

From such a quaint and essentially Italian scene, I wasn’t quite prepared for the blast of Australian ambience I would encounter soon after at the Schneider plant.

As Giovanni opened the factory door, it was almost as though I was in the shearing shed with the shearers and wool classers. There was row upon row of hyper-compressed wool bales, stacked ceiling-high and marked with maps of Australia and stencils like ‘Pomanara Mudgee AusFine’.

The bales are opened in a special machine – so tightly are they compressed, they could injure or kill as they explode apart – and allowed to sit for a few days to air and expand. We moved into the washing room, where a bath resembling a set from Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory takes Merino wool and proceeds to wash virtually all of the Australia out of it, forks dipping and lifting the wool in and out of varying temperatures, the process continuing until white and fluffy wool emerges from the other side. The sooty brown water is diverted to another treatment process, where the lanolin is extracted into blue drums to be transported away.

The wools were next sent to a machine that mixes them together to create a uniform staple (cluster of fibres), which will help the spinners to weave an even thread. Then the wool is carded and combed to straighten and align the fibres and remove any vegetable matter that may have remained from the original fleece. As the machines continued running the wool, it began to look like a mane of hair, turned into a loose rope. This was cabled onto large drums, before being compressed into a wool top.

The same process also holds for mohair, cashmere and indeed, the €4 million-worth of vicuña Andean llama wool that had recently been air freighted here from South America. The Schneiders’ plant runs 24 hours a day, six days a week.

As we prepared to leave, I was shown the power plant, a natural gas-operated engine room that generates the power and steam for the factory. The water, soft from the Italian Alps that framed the backdrop, is drawn from aquifers. There is nothing here that we don’t have in Australia; except that the Italians have spent more than 100 years developing and refining their processing methods. Between that and our wool, it’s a formidable and fruitful partnership.

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Best fo Europe: Six Senses, Switzerland 

Mend in the mountains at Crans-Montana.

By The Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Wellness pioneer Six Senses made a name for itself with tranquil, mostly tropical destinations. Now, its first alpine hotel recreates that signature mix of sustainable luxury and innovative spa therapeutics in a world-class ski setting. 

The ski-in, ski-out location above the gondola of one of Switzerland’s largest winter sports resorts allows guests to schuss from the top of the Plaine Morte glacier to the hotel’s piste-side lounge, where they can swap ski gear for slippers, then head straight to the spa’s bio-hack recovery area to recharge with compression boots, binaural beats and an herb-spiked mocktail. In summer, the region is a golf and hiking hub. 

The vibe offers a contemporary take on chalet style. The 78 rooms and suites are decorated in local larch and oak, and all have terraces or balconies with alpine views over the likes of the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. With four different saunas, a sensory flotation pod, two pools
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You can even sidestep the cheese-heavy cuisine of this region in favour of hot pots and sushi at the property’s Japanese restaurant, Byakko. Doubles from around $1,205; Sixsenses.com

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Best of Europe: Grand Hotel Des Étrangers

Fall for a Baroque beauty in Syracuse, Italy.

By Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Sicily has seen a White Lotus–fuelled surge in bookings for this summer—a pop-culture fillip to fill up its grandes dames hotels. Skip the gawping crowds at the headline-grabbers, though, and opt instead for an insider-ish alternative: the Grand Hotel des Étrangers, which reopened last summer after a gut renovation.

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Survey the entire streetscape here from the all-day rooftop bar-restaurant, Clou, where the fusion menu is a shorthand of Sicily’s pan-Mediterranean history; try the spaghetti with bottarga and wild fennel or the sea bass crusted in anchovies. Idle on the terrace alfresco with a snifter of avola, the rum made nearby. 

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As for the rooms, they’ve been renovated with Art Deco–inflected interiors—think plenty of parquet and marble—but the main asset is their aspect: the best of them have private balconies and a palm tree-fringed view out over the Ionian Sea. Doubles from around $665; desetranger.com

 

 

 

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

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TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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