Peacocks on Parade: Pitti Uomo returns to Florence on January 8th to 11th

The biannual Pitti Uomo menswear event in Florence is part spectacle, part serious fashion business

By Georgina Safe 18/12/2018

Walking into the central piazza of Pitti Uomo, the world’s most important menswear trade show in Florence, is like entering a vast aviary filled with myriad birds of exotic plumage. Peacocks, to be precise. Flashily dressed men flock to the square outside the biannual event to have their photograph taken – their lapels wider, their pocket squares larger, and the colours and patterns of their suits more vivid and lairy than tasteful design would dictate. They preen their plumage, they strut in large groups and they court the attention of street style photographers with a zeal akin to the most ardent of avian mating rituals.

When I attended the most recent Pitti Uomo, in June 2017, I was overwhelmed by the narcissism that eclipsed anything I’d ever seen outside a women’s fashion show. Pitti Uomo (its name derived from the city’s Palazzo Pitti) is so impressive a spectacle that there’s even been a mockumentary made about it, The Life of Pitti Peacocks by filmmaker Aaron Christian. The short film is narrated by a scarily accurate David Attenborough impersonator who, quite correctly, describes the Pitti peacock as “nature’s most extravagant narcissist”.

As the narrator continues, the Pitti peacock is “one of the most eye-catching creatures in all of creation. The peacock is something of a social butterfly, often grouping together in order to multiply the visual impact of its splendiferousness. It is not enough, then, to merely shine bright. He must also eclipse his neighbour.”

But to outside observers the preening of the Pitti Peacocks has also somewhat eclipsed the true purpose of Pitti Uomo, which, much more than a stomping ground for stupendously dressed men, is a place for serious menswear business to be done in a setting that is part trade fair, part runway show, part retail trend forecasting tool … and entirely unique.


Street Style by Vincenzo Grillo

As the world’s most important forum for design innovation and craftsmanship in menswear, Pitti Uomo attracted 19,400 fashion buyers and more than 30,000 visitors (including me) to the June 2017 event at the Fortezza da Basso, a Renaissance-era military fort in the historical heartland of sartorial splendour.

The financial significance of Pitti Uomo was underlined at the official opening when Florence mayor Dario Nardella and a series of political dignitaries spoke about the importance of the twice-yearly fair that delivers a significant economic boost to the magnificant Tuscan city.

“We attract the major buyers from around the world and they buy deep,” says Pitti Immagine Uomo CEO Raffaello Napoleone. “In many countries it’s quite impossible to meet these top buyers in
person, so this is a unique opportunity for brands to generate sales and awareness.”

Founded in 1983 to promote design innovation and craftsmanship, Pitti Uomo initially traded off Italy’s reputation as the global heartland of menswear.

“From a fabric point of view and from a manufacturing point of view, Italy is no doubt the leading country when it comes to menswear,” says Napoleone. “We have the best menswear producers from an industrial point of view, but also from a craftsmanship point of view, which is why Made in Italy is synonymous with quality.”

While the Pitti Immagine Uomo organisation’s origins date back to the early ’50s, when the first fashion shows were staged in the Sala Bianca in Palazzo Pitti in Florence, it was not until 1972 that the first edition under the banner of Pitti Uomo was held to promote the best of the Italian fashion industry to foreign markets. By the ’80s, the organisers realised they needed to open the event up to international designers and expand its scope from a basic trade
fair to encompass runway shows, research, fragrance, food and wine, in order to remain relevant for global buyers and media.

“The menswear trade show was really suffering due to a lack of strategy,” says Napoleone. “We decided to accept the challenge and we completely changed the style of the event from just being about a trade show to including exhibitions, fashion shows, services and special projects
that would be innovative and exciting.”

In June 2017 , those initiatives included a lavish fashion show by German suiting powerhouse Hugo Boss to promote its younger, contemporary brand Hugo, and similar runway events by J.W. Anderson and American DJ Virgil Abloh’s so-hot-ithurts brand, Off White.

The fair included sections devoted to artisanal techniques, experimental sportswear and gender-neutral clothing, and Christian Louboutin even staged a day-long bicycle polo tournament in the
Piazza Santa Maria Novella to launch his new line of sneakers.

“We were thinking of doing something around sport, and it made sense to do it in Florence at Pitti because it’s such a powerful platform,” says Louboutin.

The Frenchman was not alone as a designer praising the ability of the Florence event to generate significant sales and press coverage.

“Pitti Uomo is absolutely the best men’s fashion week in the world,” says Brunello Cucinelli, founder and CEO of the eponymous brand. “Pitti is an open parade of 30,000 people and an event
with its own identity.”

Tateossian managing director Robert Tateossian, whose accessories and jewellery brand is stocked by the likes of Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Saks Fifth Avenue, says: “We have showrooms in both Milan and London, but Pitti Uomo represents the most important showcase on a global level for presenting our collections of men’s accessories.” Buyers also relish Pitti as a one-stop shop where they can find new talents and spot emerging trends.

“Pitti Uomo is a global fair where not just the best Italian brands are presented, but where the attention and research are directed towards the whole world,” says matchesfashion.com head of menswear, Damien Paul.

Alix Rutsey, menswear buyer for Ssense in Montreal, says Pitti is “a perfect mix of big names in menswear and new experimental collections”, while Simon Hogeman, owner of Très Bien in Malmo, rates the fair as “an important opportunity to get a 360-degree view of what is happening in the men’s fashion world”.

A particularly relevant and exciting event during Pitti Uomo was the Guest Nation Australia, in which Ten Pieces, Commas, Strateas.Carlucci and Ex Infinitas were among the Australian labels displayed in a dedicated pavilion. It was launched by the Australian ambassador to Italy, Greg French, who said it was “wonderful to see Australia bringing some great ideas to the world”.
Chris Ran Lin, Double Rainbouu and Sener Besim were also part of the largest official Australian delegation ever to attend the fair, following an invitation from its organising body.

“Australia is becoming one of the most interesting – and quickly growing – places in fashion and creativity today: that’s why we decided to dedicate a Guest Nation project to this country,” says Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery president Andrea Cavicchi.

For Commas designer and owner Richard Jarman, “being selected to represent Australia at Pitti Uomo in June was a life-changing opportunity. Through Guest Nation Australia, I was introduced
to the most influential people in the global menswear industry … These relationships
have propelled Commas onto the global stage, with sales through key online stores and press in the most important fashion publications in the world.”

As any Pitti Peacock will tell you, it’s all about strutting your stuff.

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A New Chapter for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘Reverso Stories’

A special Reverso exhibit arrives in Sydney this week.

By Josh Bozin 08/05/2024

In 2024, few watchfiends would be unfamiliar with Jaeger-LeCoultre and its enduring Reverso collection. Since 1931, the Reverso has been celebrated as one of the great dress watches of the 20th century.

In recent years, the watch has only gone from strength to strength—in 2023 alone, we received the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph, the impressive Duoface Tourbillon, and the slimmer Reverso Tribute Small Seconds—capturing the imagination of casual observers, collectors, and those looking to scale the horological ladder.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Thanks to exceptional branding experiences, such as ‘Reverso Stories’, a travelling experiential trunk show, it is also part of the cultural conversation. Jaeger-LeCoultre is again summoning its movable experience to Australia, this time in the heart of Sydney’s CBD. For a limited time, eager fans can glimpse the Reverso collection up close and personal via a multi-sensory exhibition tracing the history of this remarkable timepiece.

Presented in four chapters ( Icon, Style and design, Innovation, and Craftsmanship), the Reverso story will be told through the lens of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expert watchmakers, who combine nine decades of craftsmanship, inventiveness, and design into one interactive experience.

As a bonus, guests will be privy to a large-scale art installation by Korean artist Yiyun Kang—commissioned by the Maison under its ‘Made of Makers’ programme—and the launch of three exceptional new Reverso timepieces, yet to be revealed. These watches will showcase skills such as enamelling, gold-leaf paillonage, and gem-setting, mastered by the manufacturer’s in-house Métiers Rares (Rare Handcrafts) atelier.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Completing the immersion into the spirit of Art Deco, guests will be able to enjoy a complementary refreshment post-experience at the pop-up Jaeger-LeCoultre 1931 Café.

‘Reverso Stories’ will be held in Sydney’s Martin Place from 10–19 May 2024. It will be open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. (and 5 p.m. on Sundays) and free to the public. Visitors are welcome to book online here or register upon arrival.

For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

 

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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