Bovet wins top prize at Oscars of Swiss watchmaking

Fellow indie watchmakers Akrivia, Pierre Laurent, and Greubel Forsey also win big at Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève.

By Carol Besler 14/11/2018

Bovet 1822’s Recital 22 Grand Recital took the top prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève, known as the Academy Awards of Swiss watchmaking. Results of the competition were announced at a gala presentation in Geneva last Friday attended by the crème de la crème of the watch world.

The second big winner of the night was the Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain, which took the prize for best Men’s timepiece of 2018. Fellow independents Pierre Laurent, and Greubel Forsey took home big honours as well with Laurent winning the Complications category for his Galet Annual Calendar School Piece, and Greubel Forsey taking home the Mechanical Exception prize for its million-dollar Grande Sonnerie, taking the prize for Mechanical Exception.

The Bovet 1822 Recital 22 Grand Recital is the third and most complicated in a trilogy of astronomical complications made by this small independent brand, which makes only 2000 watches a year. The timepiece is equipped with a mind-boggling array of functions. Aside from hours, seconds, and retrograde minutes, there is day, month, year, moonphase, power reserve, flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar, double-face retrograde date, perpetual calendar and a tellurium-Orrery.

The latter function is a mechanical model of the solar system named after the 4th Earl of Orrery, who commissioned the first one every made, in 1704. It depicts the earth on a hand-painted lacquer subdial, surrounded by a 3D spherical moon that orbits the earth according to the exact length of its synodic period: 29.53 days. A tourbillon escapement at 6 o’clock represents the sun, with gold beams on the carriage emanating from a central motif. The 60-second tourbillon, also serves as a seconds indictor. The watch will be made in a limited-edition run of just 60 pieces, with each customized to the buyer’s choice of orientation on the world map; one would expect no less at the price of CHF 468,500 (about $645,000 at current exchange).


The Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain, signed Rexhep Rexhepi, winner of Men’s category of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève.
Photo: Courtesy of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève

The Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain, winner of the Men’s Watch Prize comes signed by the company’s founder Rexhep Rexhepi. A rising star in the world of independent watchmakers, Rexhepi founded the brand in 2012 at the age of 25, after apprenticing at Patek Philippe and working as a master watchmaker for F.P.Journe. Akrivia is Greek for “precision” and the RR-01 movement of its winning timepiece, certified by the Besançon Chronometer Observatory, features a stop seconds and zero-reset mechanism for precise time setting. The watch is manual-wound with 100-hours of power reserve from one mainspring barrel. The dial comes in white or black grand feu enamel, with Art Deco-style asymmetrical gold or blue lines framing Roman numbers. The large diameter of the sub-seconds counter at 6 o’clock is a tribute to officer’s watches of the 1940s. It is limited to 25 pieces and priced at CHF 59,940 (approximately $82,500 at current exchange).

Overall, the independent watchmakers reigned supreme at this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève awards. Bigger watch brands have been playing it safe with new releases, opting to go for steel retro-inspired introductions in line with trends among younger watch consumers. As a result, the independents have been standing out for their contributions to innovative watchmaking and collectors have been taking note, especially with newcomer Akrivia, who is widely considered the new darling in top tier collecting circles.

Additional prizes in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève in the men’s category include:

Men’s Complication Prize:

Laurent Ferrier, Galet Annual Calendar School Piece


Laurent Ferrier’s Galet Annual Calendar School Piece, winner of the Men’s Complication prize.
Photo: Courtesy of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève

Mechanical Exception Watch Prize:

Greubel Forsey, Grande Sonnerie


Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie, winner of the Mechanical Exception prize.
Photo: Courtesy of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève

Chronograph Watch Prize:

Singer Reimagined, Singer Track1 Hong Kong Edition


The Singer Track1 Hong Kong Edition by Singer Reimagined, winner of the Chronograph prize.
Photo: Courtesy of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève

Chronometry Watch Prize:

De Bethune, DB25 Starry Varius Chronomètre Tourbillon


De Bethune’s DB25 Starry Varius Chronomètre Tourbillon, winner of the Chronometry prize.
Photo: Courtesy of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève

Sports Watch Prize:

Seiko, Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Re-creation


The Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Re-creation, winner of the Sports watch prize.
Photo: Courtesy of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève

Petite Aiguille Prize:

Habring2, Doppel-Felix


Habring2’s Doppel-Felix, winner of the Petite Aiguille prize.
Photo: Courtesy of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève

Challenge Watch Prize:

Nomos Glashütte, Tangente neomatik 41 Update


The Nomos Glashütte Tangente neomatik 41 Update, winner of the Challenge prize.
Photo: Courtesy of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève

Audacity Prize:

Konstantin Chaykin, Clown


The Audacity prize went to Konstantin Chaykin and Andersen Genève’s Clown.
Photo: Courtesy of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève

Special Jury Prize:

Jean-Claude Biver, President non-executive of the LVMH Group Watch division, Chairman of Hublot & Zenith

Revival Prize:

Vacheron Constantin, Historiques Triple calendrier 1942


Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques Triple Calendrier 1942, winner of the Revival prize.
Photo: Courtesy of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève

Innovation Prize:

Krayon, Everywhere Horizon


The Innovation prize was awarded to Krayon’s Everywhere Horizon.
Photo: Courtesy of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève

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Best fo Europe: Six Senses, Switzerland 

Mend in the mountains at Crans-Montana.

By The Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Wellness pioneer Six Senses made a name for itself with tranquil, mostly tropical destinations. Now, its first alpine hotel recreates that signature mix of sustainable luxury and innovative spa therapeutics in a world-class ski setting. 

The ski-in, ski-out location above the gondola of one of Switzerland’s largest winter sports resorts allows guests to schuss from the top of the Plaine Morte glacier to the hotel’s piste-side lounge, where they can swap ski gear for slippers, then head straight to the spa’s bio-hack recovery area to recharge with compression boots, binaural beats and an herb-spiked mocktail. In summer, the region is a golf and hiking hub. 

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Best of Europe: Grand Hotel Des Étrangers

Fall for a Baroque beauty in Syracuse, Italy.

By Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Sicily has seen a White Lotus–fuelled surge in bookings for this summer—a pop-culture fillip to fill up its grandes dames hotels. Skip the gawping crowds at the headline-grabbers, though, and opt instead for an insider-ish alternative: the Grand Hotel des Étrangers, which reopened last summer after a gut renovation.

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

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TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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