Fifteen of our favourite watches from SIHH
The year’s first major watch exhibition threw out more than a few tasty morsels over which to salivate.
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Officine Panerai
Panerai is focusing on three main pillars this year: Luminor Due, Luminor and Innovation. At SIHH 2018, it was clear that it’s a big year for Luminor Due.
The collection, first introduced in 2017, has expanded with 38mm, 42mm and 45mm variants, and a variety of textile straps. One of it even comes with the Chinese inscription of ‘Fu’, meaning fortune, on its caseback. It’ll be a hit with the Asian market, but unfortunately will only be available in June, way after the Lunar New Year.
The Marina line under the Luminor collection also sees a number of new models. Apart from textile straps, it also uses a new P.6000 hand wound movement with a three-day power reserve.
As for the Innovation pillar, Panerai reimagines two timepieces. Lo Scienziato is now available in a titanium case that’s 30 per cent lighter than a solid case, thanks to Direct Metal Laser Sintering (more commonly known as 3D printing). L’Astronomo on the other hand, features Panerai’s first moonphase complication, and even comes with a couple of customisation options.
Richard Mille
Richard Mille certainly knows how to play it up when it comes to acknowledging some of the world’s trailblazers, with pieces such as Jean Todt and Rafael Nadal. The brand does it again at the SIHH 2018 with the RM 53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough.
The piece pays homage to famed Argentinian polo player, Pablo Mac Donough. While this is actually the second timepiece made for Mac Donough, it’s the first full shockproof polo watch in the market.
Richard Mille RM 53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac DonoughRichard Mille also showcased a gold version of the timepiece st SIHH 2018
It uses tonneau-shaped reinforced sapphire crystal that behaves like tempered glass, absorbing shock when struck, preventing it from shattering. Test it out if you must – the brand claims that the glass is resistant to impacts of up to 5,000G.
The movement used in this timepiece is similar to that used in RM 27-01 Rafael Nadal, using cables to suspend the movement within the case to protect it from shock.
Cartier
If there’s a singular takeaway for January 2018, it’s that women are taking the stage (cue Golden Globes’ #TimesUp campaign). Cartier backs it up with no less than 10 expressions, showcased at the SIHH 2018.
First up: The Cartier Libre collection is available in five different models, including an iconic Crash Radieuse. The Santos de Cartier sheds some winter weight while featuring a new bezel design, patented quick-switch system, and smart link system allowing you to remove links as you please.
You can’t miss the signature felines either. The Revelation du Panthere features 900 free moving gold microbeads that form the face of a panther when tilted, while the Rencontre de Cartier features two cats huddling over a ring on the dial. Then there’s also the Ronde Louis Cartier, covered in wood and gold leaf marquetry.
Parmigiani Fleurier
Seventeen years ago, we rejoiced at the introduction of Parmigiani Fleurier’s Kalpa collection. The collection receives a swanky update in its tonneau-shaped cases at the SIHH 2018 this year.
Each of the three models, Kalpagraphe Chronometre, Kalpa Hebdomadaire and Kalpa Chronor, are fitted with in-house tonneau-shaped movements that fill the case perfectly. Our pick of the lot is the Kalpa Chronor, home to the world’s first full-gold self-winding chronograph movement.
And where time and speed are of the essence, Parmigiani Fleurier delivers. The new Parmigiani Bugatti Chiron houses a vertical co-axial movement, perpendicular dial display and vertical flying toubillon located on the side of its case. The skeleton timepiece is available in rose gold, titanium or white gold. Of course, customisations down to the smallest detail are more than welcome.
A. Lange & Sohne
A. Lange & Sohne released a fairly sizeable collection at the SIHH 2018 this year, but we’ll turn your attention to the Triple Split Chronograph. Like its predecessor, the Double Split, it has the ability to record split seconds and minutes. But get this: it can record up split hours too, up to 12 of them.
Also showcased at SIHH 2018 is the collection of 1815 Homage to Walter Lange collection. It pays tribute to Walter Lange, the great grandson of Ferdinand Adolph Lange, founding father of the brand. The dead seconds watch uses a patented system created by the senior Lange back in the day.
The Saxonia Thin Aventurine Blue Dial gets a new case size, and facelift on its dial. Also expect some line extensions like the 1815 Chronograph, Saxonia Moon Phase and Saxonia Outsize Date.
Little Lange 1 also shows the brand’s ability to excel even when out of its comfort zone. It sports guilloche dials in brown, grey and purple. The last may come across as an unlikely choice for a straight-laced brand like Lange, but hey, sometimes you’ve to show your fun side.
Piaget
Just when you thought a Piaget timepiece couldn’t get any thinner, the Swiss brand swoops in to knock your socks off. Showcased at the SIHH 2018, the 910P calibre is the slimmest ultra-thin automatic movement in the market at just 4.3mm in height. It’s a technical feat, considering the gears and pivots are mounted on the caseback of the Ultimate Automatic.
And Piaget is certainly not resting on its laurels. It’s working on the Altiplano Ultimate Concept which, when launched, will be just 2mm thick. But you don’t have to twiddle your thumbs while waiting for its release; the Possession watch comes with a rotating diamond bezel that’ll keep you occupied, for now.
Vacheron Constantin
It’s a pretty huge year for Vacheron Constantin judging by the sheer number of releases. The Overseas collection welcomes dual time and perpetual calendar models in its family, while the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Ultra Thin comes with a new peripheral rotor (and movement Cal. 2160).
There’s also no forgetting the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Collection Excellence Platine which, while similar to the Traditionnelle style, sets itself apart with a platinum case, dial, buckle and moon phase disc.
Then comes the debut of FiftySix, a collection that is clearly designed to reach a new target audience. It is inspired by Ref. 6073, a historical model from 1956. Take a closer look and you’ll realise that the shape of its lugs remind you of the brand’s classic Maltese cross.
That said, what really caught our eye was the Metiers d’Arts Les Aerostiers collection. It comprises five watches, each bearing a historically accurate, three-dimensional hot-air balloon used by famous voyagers. The timepieces also feature the use of plique-a-jour enamel, a first for the brand.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
You realise just how important a novelty is to Jaeger-LeCoultre, when it marks a milestone anniversary with a single release at the SIHH 2018.
In celebration of Polaris’ 50th anniversary, the brand designed a collection of contemporary-styled pieces. Inspired by the Memovox Polaris from 1968, Jaeger-LeCoultre eschewed the usual route of issuing re-editions.
It is everything you would expect from a celebratory collection. The brand rises to the occasion with five pieces: Polaris Automatic, Polaris Chronograph, Polaris Chronograph World Time, Polaris Date and a limited edition Polaris Memovox.
The highlight of course, is the Polaris Memovox. The tribute watch is very much still one for the deep diver. Especially one who enjoys a balance between vintage (it sports cream-coloured markers) and technological advancement (the piece retains its underwater alarm function).
Roger Dubuis
It comes as no surprise that Automotive is the big theme for Roger Dubuis at the SIHH 2018, given that racing has always been in its veins. The Excalibur Aventador S, designed in partnership with Lamborghini, now comes in a stunning blue variation.
The face-lifted version also sports five new patents, including a 2x 45-degree V-shape concept, weight-reduced mechanism and and quick friction optimisation. Sounds like a lot of hyperbole? Maybe, but it is Roger Dubuis after all. If history has shown us anything, it is that the brand can and does deliver on its claims.
The brand rides even deeper with its collaboration with Pirelli. Think timepieces using used Pirelli tyres, seven different liveries to mark each tyre available, and a Quick Release System for ease of changing straps. It’s also a race against time, as these pieces will only be available from May to June this year.
Hermes
If a new year marks the sign of new beginnings, then Hermes is certainly taking a bold step forward. This is the first year the brand has decided to exhibit at SIHH 2018 instead of BaselWorld.
Despite not showcasing a technical novelty this year, the Carre Cuir, where dial and strap seemingly become one, and the diamond-studded Klikti still managed to steal the spotlight. Men can look forward to a striking new Carre H (it vaguely resembles a more refined version of Bell & Ross’s BR01 or BR03 series). First launched in 2010, the newest addition comes with a guilloche dial and a grained chapter ring.
In the aesthetics department, the well-loved Cape Cod receives a double tour mesh strap, while the Arceau Millefiori pocket watch comes with a mock alligator dial.
Baume & Mercier
Two things struck us most at Baume & Mercier’s booth at the SIHH 2018: the first is the new Baumatic movement. The second is the brand’s partnership with Indian Motorcycle, which, despite its name, is not actually from the subcontinent but the US. The company’s legacy stretches back to the start of the 20th century.
Meanwhile, the Baumatic is Baume & Mercier’s first silicon equipped movement. Produced by the Richemont production unit, it comes with a five-day power reserve and is available in COSC and non-COSC versions.
Motorcycle enthusiasts can also look forward to the Baume & Mercier Clifton Club Burt Munro Tribute Limited Edition designed to honour the legendary motorcycle racer and his record-breaking feat in 1967.
Greubel Forsey
It is another technical year for Greubel Forsey. Key launches include the Differential d’Egalite Invention Piece 5. This deadbeat seconds watch was first unveiled in 2008 and its accuracy continuously improved upon since.
Elsewhere, the GMT Earth had a complete globe visible in 360 degrees and a unique patented summer time display. Also of note were the new Double Balancier model and the Mechanical Nano Foudroyante.
Audemars Piguet
Hard to believe that Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore is turning 25 this year. To celebrate, the manufacture unveiled the new, limited edition Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph in colourful variants.
For hardcore fans of the original, there is the Royal Oak Offshore Reedition from 1993. Those who like their watches big, bold and packed with functions can look to the Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication in white or black ceramic.
In terms of technical innovation, the Royal Oak RD#2 breaks new ground as the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar. Its profile is an ultra-svelte 6.3 mm in height. Meanwhile, the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon, a women’s piece, showcases a flying tourbillon – a first for Audemars Piguet. A GMT version of this watch was also shown.
The Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked shows off the manufacture’s skill in skeletonising, while a frosted variant exhibits its artistic side. Finally, the Millenary now sports a retro touch in the form of a polished mesh bracelet.
Van Cleef & Arpels
At Van Cleef & Arpels, the focus this year is on three categories: Poetic Astronomy, Heuer d’ici et Heuer d’Ailleurs, and Le Jardins. For us, the highlight had to be the Lady Arpels Planetarium watch. It has a nifty display of the solar system, or at least the Sun, Mercury, Venus, Earth and Moon. The latter rotates around the Earth once every 29.5 days, mimicking the actual movement of the lunar body.
Another watch – or series of watches – that caught our eye was the Midnight Zodiac Lumineux. Comprising 12 different models, each one depicts a Zodiac sign and stars that illuminate at the push of a button. It reminds us of the Midnight Nuit Lumineuse watch from 2016, but is an entirely different animal.
Finally, there is the Jardin collection. These high jewellery confections – all secret watches – are all unique pieces, which make them all the more desirable.
Ulysse Nardin
This year, for the first time ever, Ulysse Nardin releases an automatic version of its iconic Freak. The Freak Vision has a silicon balance wheel, silicon gear train wheels, the unique Grinder winding system, and Ulysse Anchor Constant Escapement.
Also new is the Diver Deep Dive which is waterproof to 1000m and has an oversized crown protector. Lastly, there is a Classic Minute Repeater Voyeur. This, says Ulysse Nardin, is its most erotic creation ever – the automatons on the dial literally make love to time.
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Best fo Europe: Six Senses, Switzerland
Mend in the mountains at Crans-Montana.
Wellness pioneer Six Senses made a name for itself with tranquil, mostly tropical destinations. Now, its first alpine hotel recreates that signature mix of sustainable luxury and innovative spa therapeutics in a world-class ski setting.
The ski-in, ski-out location above the gondola of one of Switzerland’s largest winter sports resorts allows guests to schuss from the top of the Plaine Morte glacier to the hotel’s piste-side lounge, where they can swap ski gear for slippers, then head straight to the spa’s bio-hack recovery area to recharge with compression boots, binaural beats and an herb-spiked mocktail. In summer, the region is a golf and hiking hub.
The vibe offers a contemporary take on chalet style. The 78 rooms and suites are decorated in local larch and oak, and all have terraces or balconies with alpine views over the likes of the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. With four different saunas, a sensory flotation pod, two pools
and a whimsical relaxation area complete with 15,000 hanging “icicles” and views of a birch forest, the spa at Six Senses Crans-Montana makes après ski an afterthought.
You can even sidestep the cheese-heavy cuisine of this region in favour of hot pots and sushi at the property’s Japanese restaurant, Byakko. Doubles from around $1,205; Sixsenses.com
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Best of Europe: Grand Hotel Des Étrangers
Fall for a Baroque beauty in Syracuse, Italy.
Sicily has seen a White Lotus–fuelled surge in bookings for this summer—a pop-culture fillip to fill up its grandes dames hotels. Skip the gawping crowds at the headline-grabbers, though, and opt instead for an insider-ish alternative: the Grand Hotel des Étrangers, which reopened last summer after a gut renovation.
It sits on the seafront on the tiny island of Ortigia in Syracuse, all cobbled streets and grand buildings, like a Baroque time capsule on Sicily’s southeastern coast.
Survey the entire streetscape here from the all-day rooftop bar-restaurant, Clou, where the fusion menu is a shorthand of Sicily’s pan-Mediterranean history; try the spaghetti with bottarga and wild fennel or the sea bass crusted in anchovies. Idle on the terrace alfresco with a snifter of avola, the rum made nearby.
As for the rooms, they’ve been renovated with Art Deco–inflected interiors—think plenty of parquet and marble—but the main asset is their aspect: the best of them have private balconies and a palm tree-fringed view out over the Ionian Sea. Doubles from around $665; desetranger.com
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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith
The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.
Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?
My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.
As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet.
Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.
Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut.
Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”
Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great.
Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition).
So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.
This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come.
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The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com
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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin
The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.
Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.
Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.
The origin of the Aston Martin name
The company that would become Aston Martin started out as a car dealership. In 1912, Englishmen Robert Bamford and Lionel Martin partnered to sell cars, but soon after they decided to build their own models. Their first prototype debuted in 1915, named in honour of Martin, a racing driver, and his favourite racing venue, Aston Hills. Thus, the name Aston Martin was born.
A speed-demon co-founder banned from driving
Aston Martin co-founder Lionel Martin wasn’t just a keen racing driver—he was an all-out speed demon. As a student, Martin won numerous gruelling bicycle racing records, including riding nearly the full width of England in one 22-hour stretch. He competed in motorcycle and sidecar races and automotive hillclimb competitions. It seems he also brought that need for speed to the public roadways: In 1909, having neglected to pay a previous speeding fine, Martin was caught driving 41.5 km/ph in London and was banned from driving for two years—during which he set yet another cross-country bicycle record.
A tractor company takes over
The years after World War I were tumultuous for Aston Martin, with financial difficulties and numerous takeovers. In 1947, Aston Martin went up for sale and was purchased by David Brown Limited, a company that specialised in farm tractors and industrial gears. Sir David Brown, grandson of the company’s founder, was a lifelong car enthusiast and racer, having built his own competition cars while working as an engineer at the family company. The first car built by Aston Martin after this takeover was called the DB1, named after the tractor company (and the man) that had saved the carmaker.
An indirect connection to Bentley
Around the same time that Sir David Brown took over Aston Martin, he purchased another struggling British carmaker, Lagonda. The company was developing a revolutionary twin-cam six-cylinder engine called the LB6, and Sir David wanted the engine for his new line of Aston Martin sports cars. The Lagonda engine had been designed by none other than W.O. Bentley—the man who co-founded Bentley Motors, who had long since been pushed out of the company bearing his name.
The history of the DB Series
Aston Martin built seven vehicles named in honour of owner Sir David Brown: The DB1, DB2, DB3, DB4, DB5, DB6, and the combo-breaker DBS all bore Sir David’s initials. In 1972, Sir David sold the car company, and the new owners ended the DB series of vehicles, but the name was revived in 1993 with the DB7 in honour of Sir David—who himself was given an honorary position at the company that same year.
Bond, James Bond
Of course, the most famous Aston Martin of them all is the DB5. Just over 1,000 examples were built between 1963 and 1965, but millions worldwide know this as the James Bond car. In the books, author Ian Fleming had specified an earlier Aston Martin DB Mark III as Bond’s car. Still, the DB5 was introduced in the 1964 Bond film Goldfinger, equipped with gadgets including machine guns, smoke screens, oil slicks, an ejector seat, and rotating license plates. Bond has driven several Aston Martin models over the years, including a V8 Vantage, a V12 Vanquish, and two DBS models, but the original DB5 will always be considered the quintessential Bond car.
The angular years
Today, the Aston Martin badge is most closely associated with swooping, evocatively curvy car designs, but in the 1970s the company was obsessed with angular, wedge-shaped designs. The trend began in 1976 with the Aston Martin Lagonda, a shockingly unconventional four-door luxury sedan with “folded-paper” body styling and the world’s first all-digital instrument panel. The Lagonda’s styling was further evolved in 1979 with the Bulldog, a radical concept car with gullwing doors and a sharply pointed nose. The Bulldog was meant to become the fastest road car on earth, but the project was abandoned before production could begin.
For Bond’s eyes only
While most of James Bond’s Aston Martins have been commercially available to anyone who could afford one, the DB10 seen in the 2015 film Spectre was exclusive to 007. As Aston Martin executive Marek Reichman explained to Variety, director Sam Mendes, producer Barbara Broccoli, and Bond star Daniel Craig were touring Aston Martin’s design studios when they saw a concept sketch on the wall. The Bond team insisted that this should be 007’s next car, and Aston Martin spent the next six months furiously working to turn the drawing into a real-world car. The DB10 was unveiled during the launch of the film Spectre, and eight of the 10 examples built were featured in the movie, with the remaining two used for promotional appearances.
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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip
The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season.
Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.
Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.
“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”
During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.
“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.
Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”
While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.
