The Indonesian island that’s an emerging hotspot for divers

Komodo is only second to Raja Ampat as home of the one of the richest coral reefs in Indonesia. Don’t miss it before it’s lost.

By Charmaine Tai 11/09/2017

By the time I’ve arrived at Labuan Bajo Komodo Airport, I’ve been awake and travelling for more than 12 hours. I’ve taken the fastest route from Singapore, which involved a connection flight via Bali, and truth be told, I’m wondering if I could have better used my time to fly to Australia or Eastern Europe.

I’m here to explore the 29 islands that make up Komodo National Park, and to experience the allure of Komodo. Even with transits and coordination involved, it doesn’t deter scuba divers from making their yearly pilgrimage to explore what this ‘underworld’ has to offer. After all, Komodo is only second to Raja Ampat, home of the one of the richest coral reefs in Indonesia.

I’m spent, and thankful for the Rascal crew waiting for me at the airport with a cold towel. A short 10-minute drive later, I arrive at the jetty, and hop onto one of the two tenders, with Rascal in full sight.

Built using teak and local ironwood, the gorgeous charter-only Phinisi (a traditional two-masted Indonesian sailing boat) is home to five over-water, ensuite cabins that spread across two levels. While it sleeps up to 10 adults, its small capacity matched by eight crew members including Gaz, the cruise director who hails from England.

Rascal departs just before sunset, and I’m given a quick tour around. The 2.3-m high ceiling in the rooms keeps me from feeling claustrophobic, and the large windows allow ample sunlight through. The rooms are free of clutter, save for funky pineapple coat hooks, a poster and local craftwork. It’s hard to find a single fault on this boat, especially with its unpretentious décor that exudes a homey feel, rather than one of temporary haven.

Unfortunately, despite gulping a seasick tablet, ginger pills and ale, sea sickness sets in. I barely manage a few mouthfuls of dinner before I call it a night, allowing the rocking of the boat to lull me to sleep.

I wake up to a view Gili Lawa Laut, its early-morning chill and pristine lake-like conditions evoking memories like that of New Zealand. There are no other boats in sight, and I’m off the grid.

While the others have just begun to wake up, Gaz and I set off for an adventure. Being the only certified diver on board, I’ve the honours of having Gaz as a personal guide.

After joining the military at 17, and serving stints in Iraq and Afgahanistan, Gaz called it a day to be a dive instructor (he has been diving professionally for over 10 years), and has worked at Nihiwatu, Amanwana, and the Amanikan cruiser. “I left the military because I’m not a military man,” says Gaz. His past has clearly left a mark on him though, his instructions precise to the letter, especially when he insists the tender reverses three metres.

I’ve been told that Gaz is one of the most experienced dive guides one can find on charters, and he lives up to the statement. Upon descending, we drift with the current and spot a turtle and an eagle ray, which we would have most definitely missed if not for his judgement. We’re even spot four whitetip reef sharks lazing on the sea bed. While they’re tame enough to not retreat the minute they spot us, they swim away when we get too close for comfort.

Just before our third dive of the day, Gaz enthuses, “Three dives in a day, that’s the most I’ve dived in months.” It’s a pity Rascal isn’t used as a dive boat more often than it should. It’s size means you can dock at shallower waters, which are usually calmer and clearer.

Currents can be strong in Komodo, and most of the time, we’re kicking continuously against it. Depending on the site, there isn’t much macro life, but therein lies the beauty of Komodo. Out in the deep blue are schools of fish, sharks and rays just making their rounds. An octopus decides to reveal itself, teasing as it changes colours in psychedelic ripples of silver and brown. Every dive brings about something new: spotting two giant trevallys, a slightly translucent yellow frogfish, a lone Giant Sweetlips and being circled by a school of what may be twinstripe fusiliers.

Back on the boat, I make a beeline for the the outdoor sheltered dining area. Meals on Rascal are always an elaborate, ever-changing affair. Designed by The Good Food Brotherhood, the chef on board ensures I’ve a balanced diet of vegetables, complex carbs, and a mix of meats from Moroccan meatballs to beef rendang. My only grouse — if any at all — is that I’ve not yet had a fully-local meal.

The itinerary has been left to Gaz, and when we’re not cruising or diving, I take the chance to kayak and stand-up paddle board. On one of the days, I see a group of dolphins and give chase on a tender. When the sun’s more forgiving, I trek up Gili Lawa Laut to witness a gorgeous sunset.

On yet another day, I head to Komodo National Park’s pink beach. The beach gets its natural hue from red corals that have been washed ashore and disintegrated. Over the course of years, the colour has lightened, but is still visible up close. While Champagne picnics can be had on the beach — the crew went ahead to set up a gazebo with triangle floor cushions — I am content with digging my toes into the warm sand and inspecting the fine grains that glisten like rubellites.

A trip to Komodo isn’t complete without paying a visit to Komodo National Park, home ground of the dragons. Said to be one of the largest monitor lizards, they deliver venomous bites and patiently lurk around their victims, waiting for weeks while the victims succumb to their injuries. My trek ends on a high as I watch a dragon devour a boar’s severed head, its snout, face and tusks intact. While the stench is unbearable, there’s nothing like seeing a majestic beast feast on its prized possession.

Back on land, I look at the beauty of Komodo through a different lens. Still waters to calm the soul, the lack of reception that disconnects me from the world, along with land and sea adventures that provide a daily dose of adrenaline.

Due to a miscalculation, I’ve only logged 199 dives, instead of the 200 as I was looking forward to. The good news is, Rascal will be sailing to Raja Ampat at the end of the year, so I know where I’ll be heading for my milestone dive.

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Minerality in Wine, Explained: How It Affects Taste, Aroma and Texture

And an exploration of the regions that produce great mineral-driven varietals.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 07/05/2024

If you have taken part in a wine tasting, read an article about wine, or even glanced at the back label of a bottle of wine, you have likely encountered the word minerality. But defining what that means exactly is where the problems can start—even wine experts disagree on what it is and how it expresses itself in the glass.

Minerality refers to a flavour profile and often a palpable sensation in the mouth. The flavours generally involve rocks or fossils, such as stone, river rock, flint, gravel, slate, asphalt and oyster shell. There is also a sense of salinity, often derived from volcanic soils, that is a component of mineral-driven wines. This is different from other earthy flavours such as forest floor or peat. When we host tastings, very few people will own up to having licked rocks as a child, but almost everyone has gotten a stray bit of oyster or clam shell in their mouth and can recall the taste and texture. Most of us can remember the scent of a chalkboard or pencil lead from our childhood, and even those who have never fired a gun are familiar with flint or gunpowder from firecrackers.

When minerality is discussed, it is often a quality ascribed to white wine such as Riesling, Assyrtiko, Sauvignon Blanc or Burgundian Chardonnay. We may not hear about minerality in red wine so much because the oak used for maturation may mask the flavours and aromas associated with minerality. However, two reds sometimes described as having mineral qualities are those from the volcanic soils of Mount Etna in Sicily and the shale and quartz vineyards of Priorat in Spain. A prime example of the mineral-driven style is Chablis in the northernmost reaches of Burgundy, whose wines are made with 100 percent Chardonnay. The wines have a distinctly different character than the oaky, buttery style prevalent in Napa Valley and further south in Burgundy.

Walking through the vineyards of Chablis you can see abundant fossilised oyster shells that date back 150 million years to the Upper Jurassic period, when this area was at the bottom of the sea. Dig a bit; you will find calcified ammonites and spiral-shaped cephalopods from the same era. While vineyard soil is a discussion for another day, the grey limestone here is called Kimmeridgian, named for the village of Kimmeridge in Dorset, England, where it was first identified. As Thierry Bellicaud, president of Domaine Laroche in Chablis told Robb Report, “The Kimmeridgian limestone soil, which is unique to this area, delivers all needed nutrients for the balance of the vines. The terroir nurtures the vines which then express its personality in the grapes.”

Fossils from ancient seabeds contribute to the flavour of the wine.
DOMAINE LAROCHE, CHABLIS, FRANCE

Asked how soil composition influences one of Domaine Laroche’s wines, Bellicaud referenced its Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots, “Les Blanchots is a unique terroir made of a layer of white clay on Kimmeridgian limestone with ammonites. This is the ideal combination to keep the right amount of water for the roots. The southeast exposure allows slow ripening and favours aroma development. It is one of the areas in the appellation where you can easily find oyster fossils (called Exogyra virgula). The Grand Cru Les Blanchots is delicate, refined and silky in texture.”

Assyrtiko from Santorini is almost always described as possessing a mineral quality as well as a touch of salinity, which can be attributed to the black volcanic soil in which it grows as well as to the Aegean Seaspray that wafts over the island’s vineyards. Mosel Valley Riesling’s leanness and flinty character come from the red and blue limestone in which it is cultivated.

Italy’s Soave region is also known for the minerality of its wine. Alessio Inama, third-generation family leader and director of sales, marketing and communication at Inama Azienda Agricola, told Robb Report, “Soave Classico is a volcanic region with soil made up of basaltic rocks, volcanic tuffs and ashes that date back 30 million years. The soils offer minerals in their natural form, which impact the composition of the plants themselves. In the case of grape vines, the soils have a major influence on the resulting flavours of the wines, which are mineral and floral.”

Known for their scrupulous mapping of micro-plots within their vineyards, the Inamas produce several different Soave wines made with the Garganega grape. Inama I Palchi Foscarino Grande Cuvée Soave DOC is crafted from the family’s best plots on Monte Foscarino. Inama explained, “The soil of Foscarino is a mix of pure magma, ashes and basaltic rocks that deteriorated over millions of years into a dark clay that is extremely rich in minerals. The grapes from those 40-year-old vines have strong personality, great intensity and texture, delivering a complex bouquet of white flowers, citrus notes and flinty sensations.”

The Priorat wine region in Spain is known for its minerality.
SCALA DEI, PRIORAT, SPAIN

While the sensation of minerality can be less obvious in red wines, Spanish Garnacha and Sicilian Nerello Mascalese are two grapes that often exhibit it, thanks to both the locales from which they hail as well as the often-judicious use of oak. The slopes of eastern Sicily’s Mount Etna are covered with volcanic soils composed of pumice, black ash and basalt. Priorat, a region close to Barcelona in northeast Spain, is blessed with black quartz, slate and mica soils called llicorella. Here you will find vineyards covered with small fragments of black and grey striated rock sitting atop blue and red soils embedded with the same.

Ricard Rofes, winemaker at Scala Dei in Priorat, refers to its Mas Deu vineyard as one of the winery’s “jewels.” The origin of Scala Dei Tribut and Masdeu, it sits 800 meters (2,625 feet) above sea level. Rofes told Robb Report, “In this elevated area the clay and limestone soils are ideal for growing Grenache, giving the wine that touch of acidity and freshness that makes it unique. The red-clay soils and the altitude of the vineyards located in the lap of the Sierra de Montsant give it freshness and the llicorella soils impart a genuine imprint. Our wine is the pure expression of the fruit and the terroir with a distinct personality.”

 

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Best fo Europe: Six Senses, Switzerland 

Mend in the mountains at Crans-Montana.

By The Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Wellness pioneer Six Senses made a name for itself with tranquil, mostly tropical destinations. Now, its first alpine hotel recreates that signature mix of sustainable luxury and innovative spa therapeutics in a world-class ski setting. 

The ski-in, ski-out location above the gondola of one of Switzerland’s largest winter sports resorts allows guests to schuss from the top of the Plaine Morte glacier to the hotel’s piste-side lounge, where they can swap ski gear for slippers, then head straight to the spa’s bio-hack recovery area to recharge with compression boots, binaural beats and an herb-spiked mocktail. In summer, the region is a golf and hiking hub. 

The vibe offers a contemporary take on chalet style. The 78 rooms and suites are decorated in local larch and oak, and all have terraces or balconies with alpine views over the likes of the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. With four different saunas, a sensory flotation pod, two pools
and a whimsical relaxation area complete with 15,000 hanging “icicles” and views of a birch forest, the spa at Six Senses Crans-Montana makes après ski an afterthought.

You can even sidestep the cheese-heavy cuisine of this region in favour of hot pots and sushi at the property’s Japanese restaurant, Byakko. Doubles from around $1,205; Sixsenses.com

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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Best of Europe: Grand Hotel Des Étrangers

Fall for a Baroque beauty in Syracuse, Italy.

By Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Sicily has seen a White Lotus–fuelled surge in bookings for this summer—a pop-culture fillip to fill up its grandes dames hotels. Skip the gawping crowds at the headline-grabbers, though, and opt instead for an insider-ish alternative: the Grand Hotel des Étrangers, which reopened last summer after a gut renovation.

It sits on the seafront on the tiny island of Ortigia in Syracuse, all cobbled streets and grand buildings, like a Baroque time capsule on Sicily’s southeastern coast. 

Survey the entire streetscape here from the all-day rooftop bar-restaurant, Clou, where the fusion menu is a shorthand of Sicily’s pan-Mediterranean history; try the spaghetti with bottarga and wild fennel or the sea bass crusted in anchovies. Idle on the terrace alfresco with a snifter of avola, the rum made nearby. 

Image: Benedetto Tarantino

As for the rooms, they’ve been renovated with Art Deco–inflected interiors—think plenty of parquet and marble—but the main asset is their aspect: the best of them have private balconies and a palm tree-fringed view out over the Ionian Sea. Doubles from around $665; desetranger.com

 

 

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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