Ten menswear essentials to keep you seasonally stylish

From Albert Camus’s trademark trench to the Scotch whisky of sweaters, the following selections will be wardrobe staples through the seasons to come.

By Anush Benliyan 08/05/2017

Artisanship, timeless style, and passion: These are the foundation blocks upon which The Armoury was built. The menswear store, which opened in Hong Kong 6 years ago and recently debuted in New York City, has quickly garnered a devoted following, with over 55,000 Instagram followers and counting.

The brand's success is due in part to its cofounder Mark Cho — the 33-year-old entrepreneur has a classic take on menswear and a keen eye for thoughtfully crafted merchandise. Cho, who also co-owns London-based menswear brand Drake's, recently shared with _Robb Report_ the 10 menswear pieces that transition seamlessly in different seasons.

From Albert Camus's trademark trench to the Scottish whisky of sweaters, the following selections are bound to be wardrobe staples through the seasons and for years to come. (thearmoury.com)

Trench Coat

Kentaro Nakagomi, an avid vintage-clothing collector and founder of the Japanese brand Coherence, creates modern iterations of historic overcoats worn by celebrated artists and intellectuals, including Le Corbusier and Marcel Duchamp.

"This particular coat (top) was worn by Albert Camus," Mark Cho explains about Coherence's "Al" trench, $US1750 (about $A2370). "What's special about this coat is this is actually, in my opinion, the best trench coat on the market — period.

It's super, super accurate. You can even see the D rings on the belt. That would have been for hanging ammunition and grenades." The Armoury also sells a silk-fur lining, $US500 (about $A675) with which the waterproof trench can be lined for the wintertime. (thearmoury.com)

Trousers

"These are classic Neapolitan trousers," says Cho of Ambrosi's brushed-cotton single-pleat trousers, $US800 (about $A1080). "All the details are by hand — the buttonholes, the tracking details, where the seams end."

The style, by the second-generation trouser maker, features a silhouette with a high waistband that goes across to the hip bone in the true, traditional Neapolitan manner. "It's something that looks a little less fuddy-duddy than a corduroy but has a really nice warm and homely feel to it… It's really a beautiful, beautiful pant." (thearmoury.com)

Bomber Jacket

The A-1 wool jacket by Ring Jacket, $US715 (about $A965), is one of the Armoury's best-selling pieces. "It was one of the first products we ever sold," says Cho. The made-in-Japan jacket — great for layering in the winter — is based on the styles worn by American military pilots in the 1920s and '30s.

"It's an old type of bomber jacket. It's cut a little bit on the short side, ending] on the hip bone, and it's a little bit fuller, so it sits great with full-leg trousers or even narrow jeans," he explains. "It's a lovely piece." ([thearmoury.com)

Sport Coat

Another exceptional offering by the decades-old Japanese clothier is the Ring Jacket baby-camel hair sport coat, $US1600 (about $A2165). "This one is awesome. It's my favourite [piece]. I've been meaning to grab one off the shelf before it's too late," says Cho.

Exclusive to the Armoury, the blazer was tweaked by Cho and his team to have wider shoulders, lower buttons, and lapel notches, for a more old-school look. "This one I love because it is baby-camel hair, which is a little bit softer than typical mature camel hair and you can get it in a much, much paler colour — a vibrant cream with a little bit of a sheen to it." (thearmoury.com)

Knitwear

The store offers its own line of house-label knitwear, and among the notable offerings is the Armoury's cashmere basket-weave crewneck sweater, $US750 (about $A1015). "We try to do stuff that you can't really find that easily in the market right now," says Cho.

This particular style is a heavyweight knit, which, to most, is unexpected for cashmere. "Usually when you do cashmere knits, people like it in quite fine yarns. We actually used a really heavy yarn for this instead." The garment was crafted at a mill in Scotland, a decision based on one element: water.

"Something a lot of people don't realise is that where your knitwear is made can make a difference because of the water. Knitwear is actually washed as it's made, and something about Scottish water — the same reasons that, for instance, Scottish whiskies are so great — can actually make heavyweight cashmere feel that little bit denser, with more of a body to the fabric, but more luxurious at the same time." (thearmoury.com)

Waistcoat

Another distinguished house-label knitwear offering is the Armoury's merino-wool sleeveless cardigan, $US250 (about $A340). While at first glance the piece is fairly basic, the waistcoat is actually thoughtfully conceived to bridge the gap between comfort and a chic, put-together look.

"We have a lot of guys who like the idea of a three-piece suit but the waistcoat might be impractical or a little bit too fancy," says Cho. "We made a waistcoat that's very fine. We used a 21 micron] merino wool, which is quite a fine gauge, but it's not paper thin — it still has some body." For the perfect layered look, he suggests styling the waistcoat under a suit with higher-rise trousers. ([thearmoury.com)

Cotton Shirt

Cho, who is a co-owner of the British retailer Drake's, also recommends a classic English dress shirt for the fall-to-winter wardrobe. One particular example is Drake's cotton check spread-collar shirt, $US215 (about $A290), which is handcrafted in Somerset in South West England.

"This is like the classic English dress shirt but we've updated a lot of the detail," Cho explains. "Something that actually sets apart classic English shirts from, say, Italian shirts, is the way they do the collar. When we build the collar, there's usually a little bit of what we call an 'interlining' in between the shirt and the cuff]. The collar has a little bit of stiffness to it. Drake's stripped out a lot of the interlining but kept just enough in the collar points. We actually have a triangular piece of interlining that gives the collar a neatness, but it's still super comfortable." ([thearmoury.com)

Cardigan

The Armoury's camel hair shawl-collar cardigan, $US650 (about $A880), channels the style of on-screen legend Steve McQueen. "I love it because it's actually true to the original design McQueen used to wear," says Cho.

The sizing of the four-ply knitwear lends it to be the perfect, versatile jacket. "You could wear it casually with a pair of jeans, but actually, I think it could be really cool slightly more dressed up at a social event with a pair of trousers and a button-up shirt — maybe even a tie." (thearmoury.com)

Socks

The Japanese label Tabio produces exceptional socks in such luxe fabrics as silk, cashmere, and mohair. Now, the nearly 50-year-old brand's offerings are exclusively available through the Armoury, a sweet success for Cho personally.

"I'm so excited to have these in the store now because I have been wearing [Tabio socks] since high school," he says. "Since the Armoury opened, I've been chasing them, trying to get them into the store."

The Tabio socks, $US36 (about $A49), Cho recommends are the long silk-and-cotton styles that go up to just under the knee and never droop, much like vintage styles. The Armoury offers the socks in eight hues, including burgundy, charcoal, navy, and olive. (thearmoury.com)

Scarf

Another personal project of Cho's is the Andrea's x the Armoury cashmere-and-silk Three Kingdoms scarf, $US550 (about $A745). The exclusive piece is a result of a collaboration between the Armoury and Andrea's 1947, an old-fashioned textile manufacturer in Prato, Italy, that uses traditional shuttle looms.

The lightweight scarf, perfect for both autumn and winter, depicts the Three Kingdoms division of China's Wei, Shu, and Wu states. "The image is actually taken from an old art piece my dad had hanging in his office," says Cho. "It's quite a big six-panel screen. We photographed it — because it must be 200-odd years old — and touched up the colours to preserve the look but make it wearable as a piece." (thea rmoury.com)

ADVERTISE WITH US

Subscribe to the Newsletter

Stay Connected

You may also like.

Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected