Size doesn’t matter for Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato model

Not only is the new collection more competitively priced, it’s available in a broader selection of case sizes, dial colours, and choice of metals.

By Justin Mastine-frost 22/03/2017

After debuting the Laureato last year as a limited-edition model, Girard-Perregaux hit the floors of SIHH this year with a slew of new production versions. Not only is the new collection more competitively priced — compare the original's nearly $US15,000 (about $A19,385) price tag to $US10,000 (about $A12,920) for a comparable 42 mm steel watch from the new collection — it is also available in a broader selection of case sizes, dial colours, and choice of metals.

The line now comprises a total of 34 variants — ranging from two 45 mm tourbillons all the way down to a handful of 34 mm quartz models — however for the sake of simplicity, we will confine our focus to its core models, the unisex 38 mm and men's 42 mm variants.

The Laureato's roots trace back to the height of the Gerald Genta era, specifically 1975. And while the piece was not created by the legendary watch designer, his influence is unmistakable.

That said, the Laureato is so much more than another appealing Genta-inspired dress watch. It was (more importantly) a very early in-house quartz calibre from Girard-Perregaux, which played a significant role in the development of quartz movement technology.

The GP-350 calibre that preceded the Laureato's GP-705 was the first quartz movement to run at 32,768 Hz — a frequency that soon became the standard that is used to this day. But enough of the history lesson; on to Girard-Perregaux's latest-and-greatest.

It is important to note that Girard-Perregaux did not simply alter case shapes around an existing movement. As can be seen in the above image, the calibre fitted in the 42 mm model is clearly different than that of the 38 mm.

The former is powered by the GP01800-0008, running at 21,600 vph and carrying a power reserve of 54 hours. The latter is the company's new 3300-series movement — designed specifically for the Laureato 38 — running at 28,800 vph and possessing a slightly shorter power reserve of 46 hours.

The larger of the two is a mere 0.61mm thicker than its smaller sibling, a difference that translates to a case-thickness discrepancy of 0.86mm, which is really negligible unless you are examining the two side by side with the utmost scrutiny.

Visually speaking, there is a lot to love about almost every dial and size variant of the Laureato. Available in silver, grey, or muted blue, each dial boasts an intricate hobnail pattern that catches light beautifully. And to avoid detracting from this effect, Girard-Perregaux matched each movement's date disk to the colour of each dial.

All three dial variants are quite understated, making the 42mm two-tone (pink gold and titanium) and the solid gold 38 mm the go-to choices for those wanting to grab a little more attention.

As a matter of personal preference, I found the steel models work well on their alligator leather straps, but the gold example looks far better when paired with the bracelet.

When it comes to fit and comfort on the wrist, this surprisingly is not simply a case of 42 mm vs. 38 mm diameters. If you're used to wearing 43 to 45 mm or larger watches on any given day, then the 42 mm is an absolute no-brainer.

On the other hand, if your sweet spot is around the 39 to 42 mm range, the answer isn't quite so simple. Being a personal fan of that size range myself, I quickly noticed that the 42mm model on a bracelet wears a fair bit larger than the specs would lead you to believe, meaning that at least on bracelet, the 38 mm would be the perfect fit.

Lo and behold, when trying on the exact same model on its contrasting leather strap, the 42mm suddenly wears smaller on-wrist, and the 38 mm variant seems a touch more petite than before.

Unlike many other watches where sizing is easy to work out — the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph being a prime example — we would strongly recommend heading to your local authorised dealer for a bit of a Goldilocks experiment to figure out which Laureato is too big, which is too small, and which is just right.

Pricing for the 38mm Laureato starts at $US9,700 (about $A12,530) on leather, and the 42mm starts at $US10,300 (about $A13,310). The full collection will be available in April. (girard-perregaux.com)

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Best fo Europe: Six Senses, Switzerland 

Mend in the mountains at Crans-Montana.

By The Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Wellness pioneer Six Senses made a name for itself with tranquil, mostly tropical destinations. Now, its first alpine hotel recreates that signature mix of sustainable luxury and innovative spa therapeutics in a world-class ski setting. 

The ski-in, ski-out location above the gondola of one of Switzerland’s largest winter sports resorts allows guests to schuss from the top of the Plaine Morte glacier to the hotel’s piste-side lounge, where they can swap ski gear for slippers, then head straight to the spa’s bio-hack recovery area to recharge with compression boots, binaural beats and an herb-spiked mocktail. In summer, the region is a golf and hiking hub. 

The vibe offers a contemporary take on chalet style. The 78 rooms and suites are decorated in local larch and oak, and all have terraces or balconies with alpine views over the likes of the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. With four different saunas, a sensory flotation pod, two pools
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You can even sidestep the cheese-heavy cuisine of this region in favour of hot pots and sushi at the property’s Japanese restaurant, Byakko. Doubles from around $1,205; Sixsenses.com

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Best of Europe: Grand Hotel Des Étrangers

Fall for a Baroque beauty in Syracuse, Italy.

By Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Sicily has seen a White Lotus–fuelled surge in bookings for this summer—a pop-culture fillip to fill up its grandes dames hotels. Skip the gawping crowds at the headline-grabbers, though, and opt instead for an insider-ish alternative: the Grand Hotel des Étrangers, which reopened last summer after a gut renovation.

It sits on the seafront on the tiny island of Ortigia in Syracuse, all cobbled streets and grand buildings, like a Baroque time capsule on Sicily’s southeastern coast. 

Survey the entire streetscape here from the all-day rooftop bar-restaurant, Clou, where the fusion menu is a shorthand of Sicily’s pan-Mediterranean history; try the spaghetti with bottarga and wild fennel or the sea bass crusted in anchovies. Idle on the terrace alfresco with a snifter of avola, the rum made nearby. 

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As for the rooms, they’ve been renovated with Art Deco–inflected interiors—think plenty of parquet and marble—but the main asset is their aspect: the best of them have private balconies and a palm tree-fringed view out over the Ionian Sea. Doubles from around $665; desetranger.com

 

 

 

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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