Ten sparkling wines that will expand your horizons

Be it Tasmania or Austria, the Loire Valley or the Sacramento River Delta, these 10 sparkling wines explore the outer limits.

By Michalene Busico 26/01/2017

Great sparkling wines are being made around the world, in places where you'd least expect it, using traditional and renegade methods and grapes from Chardonnay to Xarel-lo. So while you're popping corks, why not explore the outer limits of the bubble?

Here are 10 wines to get you started — all high-quality examples of their style and leaders in their region, be it Tasmania or Austria, the Loire Valley or the Sacramento River Delta. These are adventuresome winemakers, largely unfettered by history and charting their own course.

United Kingdom: Digby Fine English Reserve Brut

Who would have thought sparkling wine could thrive in Southern England? Geologists and winemakers. The limestone vein running through the Champagne region continues straight through under the English Channel, and produces a similar taut, mineral character in British bubblies.

Unfortunately, the wines have been slow to be imported to the U.S., but Digby Fine English Reserve Brut , $US64 (about $A84.50) is an exception. Named after Sir Kenelm Digby, a 17th-century polymath and pirate, the wine is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier grown in Kent, Sussex, and Hampshire. Perhaps post-Brexit, more of it will make it to the colonies. (digby-fine-english.com)

Italy: Ca' del Bosco Annamaria Clementi Franciacorta Rosé 2005

Last year, we asked Shayn Bjornholm, overseer of the notoriously difficult Court of Master Sommeliers exam, about Franciacorta. "Pick your poison," he said. "Veuve Clicquot, Moët & Chandon, Piper-Heidsieck — Franciacorta could be mistaken for any of them."

The Ca' del Bosco Annamaria Clementi Franciacorta Rosé 2005 , $US133 (about $A175) cuvée, the house's top release, is made from Pinot Nero grown in 30-year-old vineyards in the Lombardy region.

Made using the methode champenoise process, the wine is aged at least eight years in the house's best barrels before disgorgement. A great wine to pour blind, somm exam optional. (cadelbosco.com)

Australia: Jansz Tasmania Premium Brut Cuvée

Remote Tasmania has become the cutting-edge region for cool-climate winemaking in Australia, and this brilliant bubbly, Jansz Tasmania Premium Brut Cuvée, $US25 (about $A33), is one of the world's great wine values.

Jansz was founded in 1975, and was bought by the Hill-Smith family (Oz wine pioneers) in 1997. This blend of 58 percent Chardonnay, 40 percent Pinot Noir, and 2 percent Pinot Meunier is light yellow-gold, and rich with the flavours of apple, melon, and lemon. (jansz.com.au)

Oregon: Argyle 2012 Blanc de Blancs

The Willamette Valley lies along the same general latitude as the Burgundy and Champagne regions, and in the last decade it has drawn a number of prominent winemakers from France, from Jean-Nicolas Méo to Jacques Lardière.

But Argyle has been there all along, making remarkable sparkling wine since it was founded in 1987 by winemaker Rollin Soles, viticulturist Allen Holstein, and Australian winemaking legend Brian Croser.

The Argyle 2012 Blanc de Blancs , $US50 (about $A65) is made with 100 percent Chardonnay from Julia Lee's Block in the Knudsen Vineyard, which was planted in 1990. Fermented and aged in the winery's oldest neutral oak barrels, it is fresh and elegant as an aperitif or as a nimble partner with fish. (argylewinery.com)

Loire Valley, France: Domaine Huet 2012 Vouvray Pétillant Brut

This Loire Valley winemaker is legendary for its intensely perfumed Chenin Blancs, whose long, spicy finishes linger in memory for years. Lesser known are Huet's sparkling wines made with the same grape.

The Domaine Huet 2012 Vouvray Pétillant Brut, $US31 (about $A41), a pétillant — the French term for a slightly sparkling wine — draws from all of Huet's vineyards in Vouvray: Le Haut-Lieu, Le Mont, and Clos du Bourg.

Rather than the method champenoise process, it is made with method ancestral (the same used for hipster pet-nats), which involves no added sugar. It has soft, small bubbles, notes of dried apricot and quince, and a crisp Chenin acidy. (domainehuet.com)

California: Scholium Project 2015 Blowout

Winemaker Abe Schoener is a leader in California's natural-wine avant-garde. But his wildly experimental streak took a surprising turn with Scholium Project 2015 Blowout, $US22 (about $A29), which is made by mechanically injecting carbonation into a blend of Lourreiro, Grüner Veltliner, and Verdelho.

Schoener starts with serious juice — from the Lost Slough vineyard in the cool Sacramento River Delta, the source for Scholium cult favourites such as the Prince in His Caves. Then, after a brisk fermentation, he zaps it with CO2 and presto: California Lambrusco. (scholiumwines.com)

California: Roederer Estate 2009 L'Ermitage Brut

If Scholium represents the California fringe, Roederer is the epitome of California classic. The French Champagne maker brought its style to the wild Mendocino Coast in 1989 and has been producing the state's best, most consistent sparkling wines ever since.

L'Ermitage, its tête de cuvée, is produced only in the best vintages from the top blocks of the estate vineyards.

Made with equal amounts of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with 4 percent aged wine from 2006 and 2007 added, the Roederer Estate 2009 L'Ermitage Brut , $US47 (about $A62) is luxurious and complex, with notes of toasted brioche and orange peel. (roedererestate.com)

Spain: Raventós i Blanc Gran Reserva de la Finca Cava Brut Nature 2013

We think of cava as inexpensive and mass-produced, but this one is made by the scion of the Codorniu family, Spanish cava royalty, and on the property in Catalonia where the world's first cava was made.

De la Finca, the-top-of-the-line Raventós, uses grapes from the family estate, with vines as much as 80 years old farmed bio-dynamically. The Raventós i Blanc Gran Reserva de la Finca Cava Brut Nature 2013, $US33 (about $A43.5) is a blend of 45 percent Xarel-lo, 42 percent Macabeo, and 13 percent Parellada, with at least 30 months on lees.

Its chalky-salty character reflects the marine soil, and the 2013 vintage is being hailed as perhaps the best in its history. (raventos.com)

South Africa: Graham Beck Brut

Don't let the price fool you: The Graham Beck Brut , $US16 (about $A21) is the house sparkler in many of South Africa's best restaurants.

It is made with roughly equal amounts of handpicked Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from vineyards in Robertson, Franschhoek, and Steenberg. And in a technique unusual for sparkling wine, the bunches are pressed whole and fermented separately — blending occurs after fermentation, with reserve juice from previous vintages added afterward, if necessary.

The result is crisp and yeasty with a refined mousse. Pour it with abandon. (grahambeckwines.co.za)

Austria: Willi Bründlmayer Sekt Brut

The combination of Austrian grape varieties and traditional Champagne grape varieties sounds a little crazy. This sekt (a German term for sparkling wine), blends Blauer Burgunder, Chardonnay, Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder, and — oh, why not? — Grüner Veltliner.

But in the hands of Bründlmayer, one of the country's top winemakers, the result is creamy and elegant, with a touch of bracing citrus. Bründlmayer — who is based in Langenlois, just an hour outside of Vienna — ferments the Willi Bründlmayer Sekt Brut , $US45 (about $A59) in stainless steel, ages in large oak casks, and lets the wine spend 18 months in on lees before disgorgement. (bruendlmayer.at)

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

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While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

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Omega

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While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

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A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

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Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

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Bill Henson Show Opens at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery

Dark, grainy and full of shadows Bill Henson’s latest show draws on 35 mm colour film shot in New York City in 1989.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 20/04/2024

Bill Henson is one of Australia’s best-known contemporary photographers. When a show by this calibre of artist opens here, the art world waits with bated breath to see what he will unveil.

This time, he presents a historically important landscape series that chronicles a time in New York City that no longer exists. It’s a nostalgic trip back in time, a nocturnal odyssey through the frenetic, neon-lit streets of a long-lost America.

Known for his chiaroscuro style, Henson’s cinematic photographs often transform his subject into ambiguous objects of beauty. This time round, the show presents a mysterious walk through the streets of Manhattan, evoking a seedy, yet beautiful vision of the city. 

Bill Henson Untitled, 1989. Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley Gallery
Installation shot of Bill Henson’s show,’The Liquid Night’ at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery.

Relying on generative gaps, these landscapes result from Henson mining his archive of negatives and manipulating them to produce a finished print. Sometimes, they are composed by a principle of magnification, with Henson honing in on details, and sometimes, they are created through areas of black being expanded to make the scene more cinematic and foreboding. Like silence in a film or the pause in a pulse, the black suggests the things you can’t see. 

Bill Henson, Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery
Bill Henson, Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery
Bill Henson Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery

Henson’s illustrious career has spanned four decades and was memorably marred by controversy over a series of nude adolescent photographs shown in 2008, which made him front-page news for weeks. This series of portraits made Henson the subject of a police investigation during which no offence was found. 

In recent years, Henson has been a sharp critic of cancel culture, encouraging artists to contribute something that will have lasting value and add to the conversation, rather than tearing down the past.

Untitled 2/1, 1990-91 from the series Paris Opera Project type C photograph 127 x 127 cm; series of 50 Edition of 10 + AP 2

His work deals with the liminal space between the mystical and the real, the seen and unseen, the boundary between youth and adulthood.

His famous Paris Opera Project, 1990-91, pictured above, is similarly intense as the current show, dwelling on the border between the painterly and the cinematic.

Bill Henson’s ‘The Liquid Night’ runs until 11 May 2024 at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery.

Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery, 8 Soudan Ln, Paddington NSW; roslynoxley9.com.au 

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